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Bronte Beach
A superb family-orientated beach hemmed in by sandstone cliffs and a grassy park, Bronte claims to have the oldest surf lifesaving club in the world (1903). Locals pronounce it 'Bronty', not like the name of the famous authoring sisters. In fact, it's named after Lord Nelson who was the Duke of Bronte, a place in Sicily.
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Cadmans Cottage
John Cadman, the last government coxswain, once lived in this cottage. It was was built in 1816 (it's Sydney's oldest house) and is now the home of the Sydney Harbour National Park Information Centre. It helps to organise tours of the harbour islands and there's also a dig visible on the lower levels, as well as a small museum with a few exhibits.
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Campbell's Storehouses
In 1839, Scottish merchant Robert Campbell commenced construction of these storehouses and a private wharf in order to hold supplies of tea, alcohol, sugar and fabric. Construction eventually finished in 1861, and a brick storey was added in 1890. The surviving 11 storehouses here are now given over to restaurants.
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Camperdown Cemetery
Take a self-guided tour beyond the monstrous fig tree (which dates from 1848) into this woodsy, spider-web-filled and eerily unkempt cemetery. Many famous Aussies were buried here between 1849 and 1942, including Eliza Donnithorne, the inspiration for Miss Havisham in Dickens' Great Expectations . It's a great place to spot some big (up to 10cm) but harmless St Andrew's Cross Spiders.
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Centennial Park
Sydney's biggest park, Centennial Park is a leafy 220-hectare expanse popular with joggers, cyclists and horse riders; it also offers barbecue sites, playgrounds and football grounds. You can hire bikes and inline skates from several places on Clovelly Rd. The spot where Australia was officially proclaimed a nation (on January 1, 1901) is marked by the Federation Pavilion.
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Central Station
Sydney's main railway hub was built in 1906 on the site of a cemetery and a convent; the 75m Gothic Revival clock tower was added 15 years later. The main sandstone concourse has an impressive vaulted roof and is the terminus for the intercity and country trains. It also houses the Railway Heritage Centre ( - Mon-Fri, - Sat).
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Ceramic Art Gallery
Pushing clay to its rightful extremes (is there anything else as deliciously malleable?), exhibits here range from exquisite bowls and eggshell-thin vases to chunky slabs of abstract madness worth starting conversations over.
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Chinese Garden of Friendship
This tranquil, traditional garden - designed by landscape architects from Guangzhou (a sister city to Sydney) - was set up by Sydney's Chinese community to commemorate the Australian Bicentenary in 1988. Its ponds, pavilions, waterfalls and lush plant life make a refreshing break from hoofing it about the city's hot pavement, especially if you finish your visit with a pick-me-up in the teahouse.
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Circular Quay
Circular Quay is built around Sydney Cove and is considered by many to be the focal point of the city. The first European settlement in Australia grew around the Tank Stream, which now runs underground into the harbour here. For many years this was the shipping centre of Sydney, but it's now both a commuting hub and a recreational space.
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Clark Island
Clark Island off Darling Point makes a great picnic getaway, but you'll need to hire a water taxi or have access to a boat to reach it. Facilities include drinking water, picnic tables and toilets. To visit you will need a permit from Cadmans Cottage in The Rocks.
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Clovelly Beach
It's a little odd, but this ocean channel with concrete edging is a great place to swim, sunbathe and snorkel. It's safe for the kids and the water is exceptionally clear. A handy sign identifies the kind of marine life you may encounter, including a metre-long blue grouper. On the other side of the car park is the entrance to the Gordons Bay Underwater Nature Trail, a 500m (1640ft) chain to guide divers through reefs, sand-flats and kelp forests.
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Cockle Bay Wharf
The first vaguely tasteful development in Darling Harbour, Cockle Bay Wharf takes up the city side frontage as far as Pyrmont Bridge. Its modern architecture is softened by the use of timber and whimsical sculptures. We particularly like the stork fountain and the suspended clear plastic whales. It Houses ten upmarket restaurants and six bars, which are generally good albeit touristy and pricey.
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Coogee Beach
Bondi without the glitz and the posers, Coogee has a lovely sweep of golden sand, historic ocean baths and plenty of green space for barbecues and Frisbee-throwing. Locals clip both syllables and pronounce the double 'o' like in the word 'took'.
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Coogee Ocean Pools
If you've got kids, shark-paranoia, or surf just isn't your thing, Sydney's blessed with beautiful man-made ocean pools up and down the coast. Coogee's got the best of the bunch. The Ross Jones Memorial Pool, at the beach's southern end, has sand-castle like concrete turrets. Perched against the cliffs to the south is the womens only McIvers Baths. Further south still is the beautiful Wylies Baths, for serious lap swimmers and lying about.
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Cremorne Point
Cremorne Point is an excellent spot for a swim or a picnic on the grass reserve, with great views of the harbour. It's especially popular on Christmas Day, and on New Year's Eve as a vantage point for the annual fireworks.
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Customs House
In June of 2005, 120 years after its construction, Customs House reopened following a major renovation that turned the first three floors into a library. There's a great selection of international newspapers and magazines to read and free internet upstairs (it's not meant to be used for email), as well as temporary exhibitions. Walk over a large scale model of the city sunk beneath a glass floor. On the top floor is the wonderful Café Sydney.
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Darling Harbour
Once a thriving industrial port, Darling Harbour is now a vast harbourside leisure park. Its various venues include the excellent Sydney Aquarium and Powerhouse Museum, the Australian National Maritime Museum, the touristy Harbourside shopping mall and Segaworld amusement park.
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Dawes Point
This waterfront was Sydney's busiest before the construction of new port facilities. Today, many wharves and warehouses around Dawes Point are in decay, though others have had the luxury waterfront apartment treatment. Wharf Theatre (also known as Pier 4) is home to the renowned Sydney Theatre Company, Sydney Dance Company and Bangarra Dance Theatre.
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Dixon St
The epicentre of Chinatown, bustling Dixon St is a narrow pedestrian mall lined with restaurants, with ornate gates at either end. Ornamental lions keep evil spirits at bay. This is actually Sydney's third Chinatown. The first formed in The Rocks in the late 19th century, before moving to the Darling Harbour end of Market St. Dixon St's Chinatown dates from the 1920s.
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Dolphin Point
This grassy park at Coogee Beach's northern end offers great ocean views, and has a delightful ocean pool. A sobering shrine commemorates the locals killed in the Bali bombings of 12 October 2002. This neighbourhood was hit hard by the tragedy, with 20 locals killed out of a total of 89 Australians.
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EastSail Sailing School
EastSail has been around since 1983, when Australia won the America's Cup. Charters, cruises, corporate events and overnight packages are available, as well as courses, from introductory to racing level. There are plenty of boats and you'll need big bucks.
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El Alamein Fountain
One of the most notable landmarks in Kings Cross is the thistle-like fountain in the Fitzroy Gardens (actually a rather grungy plaza). The fountain is known locally as the elephant douche . Behind the fountain is a fortress-like police station where there are also some surprisingly safe public toilets. On Sundays, a small flea market sets up in the plaza.
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Elizabeth Bay House
Once known as 'the finest house in the colony', Elizabeth Bay House (1839) has been meticulously restored; painted in the original colour scheme and furnished with early-19th-century furniture. The house, with fine harbour views, was designed by architect John Verge for then-colonial secretary of NSW Alexander Macleay. The original grounds of the house served as a sort of botanic garden for Macleay, who collected plants from around the world.
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Elizabeth Farm
This lovely homestead is the oldest surviving building in Australia (1793), built as the home of John and Elizabeth Macarthur. Macarthur may be heralded as the founder of Australia's wool industry but he wasn't a nice man. An officer turned ruthless capitalist, misuse of power made him immensely wealthy and a thorn in the side to successive governors. His house is much more pleasant.
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Elkington Park
This small, peaceful and hilly park on a waterfront escarpment was named in 1883 after a local politician. On its grounds is the oldest swimming club in Australia (1888), which owns the murky saltwater Dawn Fraser Baths, named after Australia's greatest-ever swimmer and local-girl-turned-world-champion.
