Modern Australian restaurants in Sydney
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A
Quay
Quay is shamelessly guilty of breaking the rule that good views make for bad food. Peter Gilmore may be one of Sydney’s younger celeb chefs, but Quay’s exquisite menu proves he’s at the top of his game (doubters should try the crispy-skin Murray cod with shiitake). And the view? Like dining in a postcard. Bookings essential.
reviewed
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B
Bills
Sydney adores Bill Granger (aka Mr Scrambled Egg) and his original sunny eatery with its newspaper-strewn communal table. Dishes such as sweet-corn fritters served with roast tomato, spinach and bacon are equally adorable. Can’t get a seat? Head for bills in Surry Hills or Woollahra.
reviewed
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C
Aria
Aria is a star in Sydney’s fine-dining firmament, an award-winning combination of chef Matthew Moran’s stellar dishes, awesome Opera House views ( is there a cooler building?) and faultless service. The mouth-watering lamb rack is hard to overlook. Pre- and after-theatre supper menu available. Reservations essential.
reviewed
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D
Café Sydney
A roomy dining hall on the Customs House roof with outrageous harbour views, an outdoor terrace, a glass ceiling, a cocktail bar, friendly staff, Sunday afternoon jazz and superchef Nino Borgo; the list of Café Sydney’s pluses is as long as your arm. Seafood and wood-grilled dishes prevail.
reviewed
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E
Marque
Mark Best's cooking style is global in inspiration but has superbly executed French cuisine at its heart – after eating here you'll understand why Marque won the 2011 Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide restaurant of the year. There's an excellent-value, three-course set lunch on Fridays ($45).
reviewed
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F
Altitude
London chef Michael Kean plates up top-notch Mod Oz at Altitude, sending your taste buds soaring as high as the harbour views. If you've only got a day or two in Sydney, make this your last hurrah.
reviewed
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G
Bentley Restaurant & Bar
The reincarnation of this old corner pub as an upmarket restaurant hasn’t thrown the bar out with the bathwater. Mains toy artfully with English pub fare (roast chicken and duck, slow-cooked pork loin, pan-roasted jewfish), while imaginative tapas take the place of bar snacks. Faultless service; extensive wine list.
reviewed
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H
Blue Orange
A fave with Hall St regulars and travellers alike, Blue Orange has a casual, sandy vibe and a silly name, belying its delicate, complex cooking. Start with the blue cheese and walnut brûlée, then savour the slow-cooked Flinders Island lamb with roasted eggplant, fetta and mint. Divine.
reviewed
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I
Rockpool
Chef Neil Perry’s innovative take on cooking results in modern seafood creations that consistently wow the critics. Even those on a budget can enjoy his work: grab a seat at the bar and order the Moroccan fish burger ($15) or half a dozen oysters.
reviewed
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J
Forty One
Luxury dining with harbour sights and lights - the view extends forever, but the mood remains strangely intimate. It's actually on the 42nd floor, but at this rarefied altitude, most folks are too oxygen-deprived to worry about such details.
reviewed
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K
Est.
Pressed-tin ceilings, huge columns, oversized windows and modern furniture make Est. a must-see for the interior design as much as the food. Chef Peter Doyle’s menu stunners include scallops with sauternes and carrot emulsion, and baked baby barramundi. Zealous wine attendants will fetch your desired champagne from the cellar. Sydney dining at its best. Thick wallet and fancy threads a must.
reviewed
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L
Forbes & Burton
Tune in beyond the chatter in this cavernous sandstone room and you’ll hear satisfied sighs and ‘mmmm’s emanating from the affluent Eastern Suburbs clientele. They’re here for beaut all-day breakfasts (great bacon-and-egg rolls) through to meaty mains such as lamb rump with Moroccan eggplant relish and pickled cucumber and pomegranate salad. Impressive stuff.
reviewed
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M
Café Morso
The most popular eatery along too-cool Jones Bay Wharf, Morso lures black-clad, laptop-focused business bods and yacht skippers discussing upcoming Pacific charters. Sassy breakfasts (try the orange pancakes with yoghurt, berry compote and maple syrup) morph into Mod Oz lunches (the blue swimmer crab salad with avocado, tomato, herbs and parmesan is a winner).
reviewed
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N
Libertine
Libertine means ‘morally dissolute’. Check your moral fibre at the door of this luxurious, unrestrained wonderland – gold and crimson drapes, lacquered black timbers and chandeliers set the scene for captivating fusion dishes such as the house curry (green prawns, squid and butternut pumpkin). Cement your moral decay at the cocktail bar.
reviewed
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O
Wharf
Postcard views, nouveau-industrial design, sexy staff and photoworthy Mod Oz – the Wharf has it all on tap, but manages to remain unpretentious and grounded. Perfect for a romantic occasion (such as your holiday), or a pre- or post-theatre drink or bite (salt-and-pepper squid like you ain’t never had before). One of our favourites.
reviewed
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P
Dov at Delectica
Opening onto the leafiest part of Victoria St, L-shaped Dov will tempt you into lingering all morning over your newspaper and caffeine. If they sleep through breakfast, locals, backpackers, style mongers and film-makers squish in for lunch and dinner. The DOV burger reigns supreme (but check out the savoury tart of the day just in case).
reviewed
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Q
Ripples
Flanked by the Harbour Bridge, the choppy harbour and Luna Park’s insane grin, Ripples does well to compete with the view and come out on top. Expect lots of seafood with subtle Asian and European flavours on an ever-evolving menu, along with fish and chips cooked to crispy perfection. And it’s BYO, too!
reviewed
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R
Bondi Social
This cosy, chocolate-coloured, beach-shaped room opens onto a deck, from which Pacific views extend from here to eternity. Try the honey-glazed duck with coriander or the seared yellowfin tuna with paprika, fennel and salmon caviar. They also have a mean cocktail menu if you'd rather just sip and stare.
reviewed
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S
Nick's
This hugely popular, glass-fronted fishbowl is king of the newly ensconced Bondi Pavilion restaurants. Mood and marketing are 'mainstream chain' (Nick's is one of five around town), but the beach views are bodacious. Try the kangaroo fillet or char-grilled octopus with tomato, fetta and olives.
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T
Glebe Point Diner
A sensational neighbourhood diner, where only the best local produce is used and everything from the home-baked bread and hand-churned butter to the nougat finale is made from scratch. The food is creative and comforting at the same time – a rare combination.
reviewed
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U
Cruise
The cocktail lounge upstairs wallows in lugubrious style; the bar downstairs does a heady trade. In between, Cruise restaurant cooks up satisfying serves of prawn-and-scallop dumplings with red vinegar, and local snapper fillet with shaved fennel, prawns and tomato vinaigrette. Tasty work.
reviewed
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V
Blackbird
This place veritably thrums from the minute it opens its doors for breakfast. Funky young staff cruise the cool interior delivering hearty bowls of pasta, New York–style pizzas from the hot-stone oven, and fat triangles of cake. Perfect to fuel up before or after a big night out.
reviewed
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W
Swell
Pull up a pew next to Anthony LaPaglia or Jennifer Hawkins for seaside Swell’s spanking day-turns-to-night menu. Greet the day with poached eggs, pumpkin, feta and spinach, linger into lunch with a snazzy steak sandwich and return at dinner time for the salt-and-pepper squid.
reviewed
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X
Bower Restaurant
Follow the foreshore east from Manly’s ocean beach to this salty little food room, within spray’s breath of the sea. The seafood-and-champagne risotto is a knockout. The sandy surfer-gal staff aren’t afraid to let Olivia Newton-John wail on the stereo. BYO.
reviewed
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Y
Le Kiosk
'Le Kiosk' sounds ugly but defines romance - a sandstone cottage, subtle lighting, open fireplace and the lull of lapping waves. The food proves a worthy paramour; swoon over snapper fillet with sautéed calamari, bacon, chilli and cauliflower.
reviewed
