This is the real Chinatown deal: bald barbecued ducks dangling in the window, pink neon, plastic chairs and a murderous butcher next door (‘Goat inside!’…and pork ear, jellyfish and ox tongue). Try the soft-shell crab, or the pig’s blood congee if you’re feeling adventurous. You might need a Tsingtao or three to stay sane amid the mildly confronting chaos.