Gunbalanya (Oenpelli)

Introducing Gunbalanya (Oenpelli)

Gunbalanya is a small Aboriginal community 17km into Arnhem Land across the East Alligator River from the Border Store in Kakadu. The drive in itself is worth it for that brilliant green wetlands and spectacular escarpments all around. Road access is possible only between May and October: check the tides at Cahill’s Crossing on the East Alligator River before setting out so you don’t get stuck on the other side.

A permit is required to visit the town, usually issued for visits to the Injalak Arts & Crafts Centre (8979 0190; www.injalak.com; 8am-5pm). At this centre, artists and craftspeople produce traditional paintings on bark and paper, plus didgeridoos, pandanus weavings and baskets, and screen-printed fabrics, either at the arts centre or on remote outstations throughout Arnhem Land. Prices here are wholesale – all sales benefit the artists and therefore the community. Credit cards are accepted and discounts are offered to YHA members.

As you walk around the veranda of the arts centre to see the artists at work (mornings only), peer out over the wetland at the rear to the escarpment and Injalak Hill (Long Tom Dreaming). Knowledgeable local guides lead tours to see the fine rock-art galleries here. The two-hour tours (bookings essential) cost $150 per group. Although it may be possible to join a tour as a walk-in, it’s generally best to book a tour from Jabiru that includes the Injalak Hill walk.

You can obtain permits from the Northern Land Council (8979 2410; Flinders St, Jabiru; per person $12.50; 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri), which issues them on the same day, although 24 hours’ notice is appreciated.

Stone Country Festival (www.gunbalanya.org), in August, is an open day and cultural festival with traditional music, dancing, arts and crafts demonstrations. It’s the only day you can visit Gunbalanya without a permit. Camping is allowed but strictly no alcohol.

Last updated: Apr 19, 2010