Royal National Park

The traditional lands of the Dharawal people, the 165-sq-km Royal National Park was established in 1879, making it the second-oldest national park in the world (the oldest is the USA’s Yellowstone). The park features vertiginous cliffs, secluded beaches, coastal scrub, heathlands, lush rainforest, isolated seaside communities and raucous flocks of yellow-tailed black cockatoos. Other local residents include echidnas, swamp wallabies, lyrebirds and kookaburras (and a few snakes – watch your step). The park begins at Port Hacking, 30km south of Sydney, and stretches 20km further south. The park’s main road detours to Bundeena, a small town on Port Hacking – a world away from Sydney’s clash and throb. There’s not a lot to do here beyond swimming at Horderns Beach, walking the town-to-town Bundeena–Maianbar Heritage Walk, and checking out the Jibbon Aboriginal rock engravings on the headland east of Jibbon Beach – outlines of the animals the Dharawal people used to hunt. The sandstone plateau at the northern end of the park is an ocean of low scrub, the fuel for three voracious bushfires in recent years. The most serious one (in 1994) destroyed 95% of the park; stricter prevention measures have been implemented since. You’ll find taller forest in river valleys and at the park’s southern boundary on the edge of the Illawarra Escarpment. In late winter and early spring the park is carpeted with wildflowers. Further into the park is Wattamolla Beach and lagoon, great for a swim, and Garie Beach, great for a surf. Era, South Era and Burning Palms beaches also have good surf, but Marley Beach can be risky ( Little Marley is safer). You can also swim in the upper reaches of Kangaroo Creek, but not in the Hacking River. There are some super picnic sites, walks and cycling tracks in the park. A walking and cycling trail follows the Hacking River south from Audley; others pass tranquil freshwater swimming holes. The spectacular two-day, 28km coastal walking trail, which skirts the park’s eastern boundary, is highly recommended for those who have time. The park visitors centre can assist with camping permits, maps and bushwalking details. If you’re driving, consider continuing south to the amazing Sea Cliff Bridge, a magnificent 665m stretch of elevated road between Coalcliff and Clifton.