Melbourne’s Mod-Greek scene is thriving, and George Calombaris’ grand city space gives it the glamour it deserves. There’s no fusion fussing, but rather a respect for the basics and a creative, playful sensibility. Think dolmades stuffed with roast quail, salmon cooked slowly in tzatziki and served with almond skordalia, or the ‘Santorini breakfast’ dessert (honey sorbet, yoghurt jelly and walnut biscuit). The separate bar area has a wonderful snacks menu that gives you a sense of the food without blowing the budget. Bookings required.