Head here if you’ve had it with Melbourne moody and all that dark wood. Although named for a famous 19th-century madam, it feels as though you’ve fallen into a camp ‘60s rabbit hole, with much Astroturfery and staff dressed à la the country club. And just like in a Richard Yates novel, they certainly know their booze. The décor might veer towards the hysterical, but it’s just the tonic on a chilly winter’s day; they even provide lap rugs for the terrace.