Esala Perahera: Hindu festival of the tooth

14 July 2009 11:48am

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Legend has it that when Buddha was cremated in the fifth century BC, one of his followers took a tooth from the pyre. The holy canine was later smuggled to Sri Lanka, in the hair of an Orissan princess disguised as a Brahmin priest. King Megavanna was so happy to have the religious relic on his island that he had it paraded it through the city for his subjects to marvel at.

Today’s Esala Perahera festival is as colourful as the story of its origins. Taking place in August on the ten days leading up to the full moon, the time-honoured elephant parade takes place in Kandy, the Sri Lankan centre of Buddhism. For more than 400 years, the city’s Dalada Maligawa (Temple of the Tooth Relic) has housed the revered dentistry. A replica casket is used in the parades, but that doesn’t stop thousands of Buddhist pilgrims from breaking out their drums, dancing shoes, whips and fire.
This spectacle can be seen, by torchlight, at the nightly elephant processions, which are actually formed of five separate parades. In the 18th century, the South Indian Nyakar dynasty introduced a Hindu element to proceedings, and four of the parades start at temples dedicated to the religion’s principle deities, Vishnu, Natha, Kataragama and Pattini.

The Hindu hoe-downs spill into the main parade, where the Jumbo of honour is the mighty tusker from Dalada Maligawa, carrying the golden casket. All the elephants are dressed up to the nines, clad from trunk to toe in silk costumes, glittering thread and embroidered cloth, even chains of fairy lights.
Between the elephants, the religious participants perform all kinds of devotional acts to the booming drums. Some show their faith by walking barefoot or, in the case of the Hindus, with spikes in their backs. The procession is headed by banner carriers and whip crackers, whose weapons clear the path of both evil spirits and the crush of humanity. Kandy is the country’s main arts centre and the city’s performers add to the chaos. Acrobatic fire performers juggle, twirl and eat oily flames, their glow reflected by palanquins teetering on elephant back.

The most riotous parade happens on the last night. The following morning, preparations for next year are already underway at the ‘water cutting’ ceremony. A religious official draws a sword through the Mahaweli Ganga river, in a ritual designed to divide pure and impure and ensure a plentiful supply of water. Some water is kept and used in the next opening ceremony, when breadfruit trees are planted outside the temples.

Essentials

Bag a seat with a view, either arrive hours before the action begins or reserve a place in one of the premises on the parade route.

Local Attractions

Linger in World Heritage-listed Kandy, built around a peaceful lake among hill stations and tea plantations.

More Info

Sri Lanka Tourist Board, Colombo: +94-112-437059.

Questions regarding Esala Perahera? Jump over here to the Thorn Tree travel forum for this year’s dates, and here for a discussion of how Esala Perahera rates with the world’s best cultural events.

Excerpt taken from: A Year of Festivals by Lonely Planet.

Comments

21 July 2009 1:57PM asusanto98 Report this comment
I love this culture of Hindu...
Friendly ...yet mystical....
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29 July 2009 9:22PM flyingscotslass Report this comment
Hello there
This parade is essentially an annual buddist cultural parade with kandian and hindu traditions embroidered in to the whole pagent.
What makes you feel that it is of 'culture of Hindu...'?
As a child I have visited this pagent many times.
27 August 2009 10:08PM devoneco Report this comment
The Esala Pagent in Kandy IS NOT A HINDU FESTIVAL - it is a BUDDHIST pagent. I am apalled at your ignorance. Being a leading Tour Organization who has been operating in Sri Lanka so long, I am surprised at your lack of information about this country. Please make a correction to this article immediately since, as offended I am as a Sri Lankan, I am sure there are many others who feel the same way.
21 September 2009 5:53PM iragould Report this comment
Actually devoneco, it a combination of both! I suggest you take time to learn about what its all about! Typical mistake by people with Sinhalese only mentality!!! This is not a Buddhist only pageant! Its infused with multiple cultures. I am sure, others with the Sinhalese only mentality may be offended like you as well!
I must say that I am appalled at your ignorance and your spelling!!
18 December 2009 9:00AM mohanglobal Report this comment
Hey Guys as Lonely Planet, For a reputed outfit like Lonely Planet, this is a glaring error. Come on wake up guys, this is not a 'Hindu' festival, it is a Buddhist festival. Sure there are Hindu connections, but it is one of the most world famous Buddhist events each year. Who did you assign to write this article? He/she sure needs to go back to school.
Its like saying "Anglican Festival at St Peter's Basilica in Rome - The Pope said Christmas Mass at the Anglican Basilica in Rome!!!"
Guys, get your act together. Thanks. Melbourne, Australia.
25 December 2009 6:52PM kasun198 Report this comment
this is a Buddhist festival. Not Hindu. hay u guys come to the reality !!
26 January 2010 3:54PM iragould Report this comment
I suggest that people replying should read the posts before they post their own ignorant comments! The perehera is a combination of cultures! I suggest you take time to learn about what its all about! Typical mistake by ignorant idiots who do not wish to take time out to learn about the actual facts before replying! This is not a Buddhist only pageant! Its infused with multiple cultures. I must say that I am appalled at your ignorance and your spellings!!
28 January 2010 11:29PM goodnews2010 Report this comment
Ya, it's not a Hindu Festival. It's a buddhist festival.Calling it a Hindu Festival is something even a Hindu living in Sri Lanka wouldn't agree with.Don't get confused with the temples of the four deities joining in.These deities are worshiped by both Buddhist and Hindu ppl in Sri Lanka.I m from Sri Lanka. I gotta know ryt ? :) Pls correct this.
3 February 2010 1:42PM buddhi_desilva Report this comment
Guys you got to get your facts right! How can we rely on LonelyPlanet for other destinations when we see these glaring mistakes...
A simple google search would have fixed this ;)