Peak Lenin (7134m)

23 days (Tashkent)

Destinations visited: Uzbekistan, Tashkent, Kyrgyzstan

Grading:

Advanced Mountaineering Expedition

Grading Definitions

Discovery & Cruising

These are our least demanding trips. These journeys of discovery and cruises involve little or no extended activity and are suitable for people with a basic level of fitness and good health. The itinerary may take place in remote areas (with basic facilities) and may involve long travel days on various types of transport. Sightseeing may be conducted on foot and all participants should be capable of carrying their own luggage from vehicle to hotel rooms. These adventures do not go above 2500m and rarely involve camping.
Suggested preparation: Once or twice a week, we recommend you walk on undulating terrain for an hour, for at least 2 -3 months prior to departure.

Adventure Touring

Suggested preparation: Two or three times a week, we recommend you walk on undulating terrain for an hour or more, for at least 3 months prior to departure.

Introductory

These trips involve trekking or walking, cycling, rafting or sea kayaking for up to five or six hours a day at a slow but steady pace and should never be misinterpreted to mean they are easy trips. These trips do not spend time at altitudes above 4000m and are usually a week in duration. You will need a reasonable level of fitness and good health.
Suggested preparation: 30 minutes of aerobic type exercise, (either cycling or jogging) three times a week for three months leading up to your trek. For trekking, hill walking with a daypack in variable weather conditions is also recommended. For a cycling adventure, road cycling twice a week for three months prior to departure is recommended.

Introductory to Moderate

These trips involve a combination of what is described in our INTRODUCTORY and MODERATE levels. The emphasis is on introductory activity with several moderate stages

Moderate

These adventures involve trekking, cycling, rafting or sea kayaking for up to 6 or 7 hours a day at a steady pace. These trips may spend successive days at altitudes not generally exceeding 5,500m and are usually between 10 and 15 days in duration. You will need a good level of fitness and be in good health.
Suggested preparation: 45 minutes of aerobic type exercise, three to five times a week for the three months leading up to your trek. Hill walking with a pack in variable weather conditions or road cycling is also recommended depending upon the activity you plan to undertake.

Moderate to Challenging

These adventures involve trekking, cycling, rafting or sea kayaking for up to 6 or 7 hours a day at a steady pace. These trips may spend successive days at altitudes not generally exceeding 5,500m and are usually between 10 and 15 days in duration. You will need a good level of fitness and be in good health. Suggested preparation: 45 minutes of aerobic type exercise, three to five times a week for the three months leading up to your trek. Hill walking with a pack in variable weather conditions or road cycling is also recommended depending upon the activity you plan to undertake.

Challenging

These adventures involve trekking, cycling or rafting in remote areas in variable weather conditions for up to 8 to 10 hours a day (possibly more subject to weather conditions and altitude). This may include spending successive days at altitudes not generally exceeding 6000m. These trips may often be over three weeks in duration. You will need an excellent level of fitness, be prepared to carry a daypack weighing up to 8kgs (and in some cases a full pack) and be completely comfortable in adverse weather conditions.
Suggested preparation: One hour of aerobic type exercise, four to five times a week for three to six months prior to departure. Hill walking with a pack in variable weather conditions or on/off road cycling is also recommended.

Entry Mtn/Exploratory Treks

These adventures are classed as expeditions. They involve either extreme trekking and or basic mountaineering. Expect remote and poorly defined trails in variable weather conditions for up to 12 hours a day (possibly more subject to weather conditions and altitude). This may include a number of demanding high pass crossings and evacuation may be difficult from remote areas. Suitable for first time mountaineers wishing to take the step from trekking into the realm of mountaineering. Prior experience trekking at altitude is preferable but not essential and you should be comfortable in adverse weather conditions. Prior technical mountaineering experience is not necessary. Terrain will involve low angle snow slopes. Ropes may be used during treks for glacier travel and steeper sections of ice and snow. When mountaineering, basic mountaineering instruction is given by our mountaineering guides.
Suggested preparation: For grade 8-10 mountaineering expeditions you will need to be very fit and healthy. A minimum of 1 hour of aerobic exercise per session, four to five times a week is essential. Running and cycling in hilly areas is particularly beneficial as are multi day walks on the weekends. This is the ideal time to try out your boots and other gear to make sure you are prepared and ready for your expedition. If you are considering Intermediate or advanced level trips, you will need to discuss your preparation leading up to the trip with our expert staff.

Intermediate Mtn Expedition

Participants should be competent and self sufficient in the outdoors and have experience in multi day trekking at altitude. Prior experience on an entry level mountaineering expedition is highly recommended. The terrain will involve low to moderate angle snow slopes and traveling on crevassed glaciers. Experience using ice axe and crampons is preferred but not essential.
Suggested preparation: For grade 8-10 mountaineering expeditions you will need to be very fit and healthy. A minimum of 1 hour of aerobic exercise per session, four to five times a week is essential. Running and cycling in hilly areas is particularly beneficial as are multi day walks on the weekends. This is the ideal time to try out your boots and other gear to make sure you are prepared and ready for your expedition. If you are considering Intermediate or advanced level trips, you will need to discuss your preparation leading up to the trip with our expert staff.

Advanced Mtn Expedition

These are our most challenging expeditions. Clients must have prior mountaineering experience. Most are participatory expeditions & involve load carrying, setting up of camps, cooking and campcraft. Altitude is generally greater than 6500m. Some of these expeditions also involve “technical” climbing and are for experienced alpine climbers / mountaineers only. Technical expeditions involve steep climbing at high altitude (including rock climbing). Participation on one of these expeditions is subject to acceptance by one of our high altitude mountaineering guides.
Suggested preparation: For grade 8-10 mountaineering expeditions you will need to be very fit and healthy. A minimum of 1 hour of aerobic exercise per session, four to five times a week is essential. Running and cycling in hilly areas is particularly beneficial as are multi day walks on the weekends. This is the ideal time to try out your boots and other gear to make sure you are prepared and ready for your expedition. If you are considering Intermediate or advanced level trips, you will need to discuss your preparation leading up to the trip with our expert staff.

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A high altitude expedition in the Pamirs

Situated on the Tajikistan - Kyrgyzstan border, Peak Lenin stands at an altitude of 7134m and is the second highest mountain in the Pamir mountain range. Although a popular and straight forward ascent suitable for those who wish to climb for the first time over 7000 metres, this expedition is not to be underestimated due to the extreme altitude involved. Our expedition is from the Kyrgyzstan side of the peak, beginning from the village of Osh. We will acclimatise on the mountain, establishing and stocking our high camps for the first half of our expedition. Once all camps are in place, we will rest before making our summit push under expert guidance. To join this expedition you will need a high level of fitness, basic mountaineering skills and prior experience at high altitude.

Highlights

The opportunity to summit peak Lenin on a fully supported expedition
Visit the Silk Route town of Tashkent
Pamirs Mountain Range
Journey through the Fergana Valley to Osh
Cross the Taldyk Pass
Fully supported including services above base camp

Itinerary

Day 1 Join Tashkent

On arrival you will be met by a representative of World Expeditions and transferred to the group hotel.

Day 2 Transfer to Osh (420km, approx. 7-8hrs)

Osh is the nearest city from which expeditions to Lenin Peak begin. Osh (called 'The Southern Capital") is the biggest city in southern Kyrgyzstan. It is a city with a host of side-streets, cozy open-air cafes and restaurants, bazaars and the main point of interest - "Sulayman-Mountain". This "mountain" rises in the middle of the town against a background of boisterous life, reminding us of the immediate proximity to its majestic brothers - the Pamir-Alay Mountains, which is the most unknown mountain wilderness in the world. Overnight hotel.

Day 3 Transfer to Lenin Peak Base Camp (3600m) (300 km, 7-8hrs).

From Osh to our base camp we drive along the Pamir Tract. We will cross the Taldyk Pass (3615m) before taking lunch in a yurt camp near Sary Tash village en-route. In the afternoon we will enter the Alay Valley to our base camp.Base Camp (3800m) is set on a picturesque alpine glade "Lukovaya Polyana". It is very comfortably appointed with large two person tents with wooden flooring and kurpachas (Kirghiz national mattress).

Day 4 Preparation day

This day has been set aside for rest and acclimatisation. Your guide will brief you on the days ahead and assist you with your gear.

Day 5 Climb to camp 1 (4400m). Approx. 8-9 hrs

This morning an early start is required for the best conditions. To gain the Lenin Glacier we must ascend Puteshestvennikoy Pass (4200m). The path is well marked and can be snow covered. Descending along the slope of the pass we cross a river and walk along the moraine to Camp 1 before making our return journey to base camp.

Day 6 Move to camp 1 (4400m). Approx. 4-6 hrs.

Today we retrace our trek and carry more loads to camp 1 where we will stay overnight.

Day 7 Acclimatisation day.

Our Russian crew will depart with loads for camp 2 allowing us time to acclimatise further. We will walk to a nearby glacier and practice various rope techniques which will be required higher up on the mountain.

Continue reading ...

Day 8 Climb to camp 2 (5300m). Approx 8-9 hrs.

Today we make a very early start in order to reach camp 2. Leaving camp 1 we head towards the North Wall and the beginning of the snow slope. After crossing the Lenin Glacier the angle of the slope is 35 to 40 degrees and we will use fixed ropes to assist us. Continuing up for approx. 80 metres we then traverse the slope onto a snow plateau known as “Skovoroda”. There is a final slope before reaching camp.

Day 9 Acclimatisation

We undertake acclimatisation walks today while our Russian crew carry more supplies up to camp 3.

Day 10 Return to Base Camp (3600m). Aprrox 9-10hrs.

Today will be a very long day as we depart camp 2 for base camp, stopping for lunch at camp 1.

Days 11-12 Rest days

Two days of rest in our comfortable base camp. These days are important for the acclimatisation process and to ensure we are well rested for the summit bid ahead. It is also good opportunity to relax and make use of the camp sauna!

Days 13-15 Climb to camp 3 (6100m)

We leave the comfort of our base camp to make our way to camp 3 from where we will make our summit bid.The climb between camp 2 and camp 3 can be exposed and windy.We ascend the 25 to 30 degrees slope always keeping to the left of the rock to gain the ridge. We climb to the left towards Razdelnaya Peak (6200m), traverse the summit and descend to Camp 3.

Days 16-20 Summit attempt

Summit day The route to the summit is not considered a technical climb, and although it is relatively straightforward, it is not to be underestimated due to the high altitude and adverse weather conditions. The trek to the top is a long one on a relatively easy angled ridge. Summit day will be around a 12-14 hour day.Our itinerary during this time is flexible. We ask that all participants follow the advice of the expedition leader and crew at all times and participate actively in load carrying, setting up of camps and preparing of meals when required.

Day 21 Transfer from BC to Yurt camp and Osh

After a demanding yet exhilarating climb we pack up our camp and transfer back to Osh and a well earned shower.

Day 22 Transfer Osh to Tashkent (approx. 7 hrs)

We need to make a relatively early start this morning for the picturesque drive back to Tashkent.

Day 23 Trip concludes in Tashkent

After breakfast trip concludes with a transfer to the airport for onward arrangements.

Additional Information

Inclusions

21 breakfasts, 17 lunches and 17 dinners
airport transfers
all internal transport by minibus and 4WD jeep
4 star accommodation in Tashkent on a twin share basis
all climbing and boundary zone permits
complete expedition service including guides, cooks, porters, two person tents, group camping equipment & mess tent
World Expeditions high altitude guide
services above base camp
expedition medical kit
portable high altitude chamber

Summary

23 day trip
17 day trek/mountaineering
18 nights camping
4 nights hotels

Trip Main Activities

Mountaineering
Trekking

Group Size Min

Group Size Max

Accommodation Summary

Equipment Required

Specialist gear required include walking boots and day pack (a comprehensive gear list is provided in the pre-departure information provided on booking).

What You Carry

In your pack you will need to carry extra warm clothing (depending on the altitude, location and weather), a rain jacket, water bottle, film and camera gear, valuables and personal items such as sunscreen, lip-eze etc. Whilst on the mountain you will be required to load carry to establish camps, or carry extra gear in case of inclement weather. Your pack needs to be a minimum of 65litre capacity.

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