Neighbourhood sights in Asia
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Golden Gai
This ramshackle block of tiny bars became golden just in time for the ‘64 Olympics. By day, there’s not much to see here except for dozens of stray cats. But by night, the closet-sized bars, some accessed by stairways steep enough to bruise your shins as you ascend, light up and fill up, mostly with off-duty office workers. There’s been much speculation about the demise of Golden Gai’s rickety structures and narrow alleyways, but for the moment it seems a new generation is buying in and quietly setting up shop.
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Dōtombori
Dōtombori is Osaka's liveliest nightlife area. It's centred on Dōtombori-gawa and Dōtombori Arcade (道頓堀), a strip of restaurants and theatres where a peculiar type of Darwinism is the rule for both people and shops: survival of the flashiest. In the evening, head to Ebisu-bashi bridge to sample the glittering nightscape, which brings to mind a scene from the science-fiction movie Blade Runner. Nearby, the banks of the Dōtombori-gawa have recently been turned into attractive pedestrian walkways and this is the best vantage point for the neon madness above.
Only a short walk south of Dōtombori Arcade you'll find Hōzen-ji (法善寺), a tiny temple hidden down a narrow …
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Gion District
Gion is the famous entertainment and geisha quarter on the eastern bank of the Kamo-gawa. While Gion’s true origins were in teahouses catering to weary visitors to Yasaka-jinja, by the mid-18th century the area was Kyoto’s largest pleasure district. Despite the looming modern architecture, congested traffic and contemporary nightlife establishments that have cut a swathe through its historical beauty, there are still some places left in Gion for an enjoyable walk. It looks quite drab by day, but comes alive with people and lights in the evening. Hanami-kōji runs north to south and bisects Shijō-dōri. The southern section is lined with 17th-century traditional restaurant…
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Tetsugaku-no-Michi (Path of Philosophy)
The Tetsugaku-no-Michi is a pedestrian path that runs along a canal near the base of the Higashiyama. It's lined with cherry trees and a host of other blooming trees and flowers. It takes its name from one of its most famous strollers: 20th-century philosopher Nishida Kitarō, who is said to have meandered along the path lost in thought. It only takes 30 minutes to complete the walk, which starts just north of Eikan-dō and ends at Ginkaku-ji.
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Kabukichō
Tokyo’s most notorious red-light district, which lies east of Shinjuku Station and north of Yasukuni-dōri, is made up of soaplands (bathhouse that offer sexual services), love hotels, peep shows, pink cabarets, porn booths, ‘nurse’ pubs, prostitutes and strip shows, all well attended by drunken salarymen out for the night. Female voices wail out invitations in accents from the Philippines, Thailand and China as well as Japan, while Japanese punks eke out a living passing out ads for karaoke boxes and peep shows. For the ladies, there are ‘men’s’ bars, with photos of foppish Japanese blokes with shaggy hair dyed along the spectrum from platinum to auburn, peering out from …
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Love Hotel Hill
Anyone who thinks that Japan is all about raked pebble gardens, geisha in kimono and Zen meditation hasn’t strolled through Love Hotel Hill. Just west of central Shibuya, this neighbourhood offers one of the largest concentrations of love hotels in Tokyo, where men and women out on the prowl hope the night will end. Depending on your tastes, you can bed down in a variety of themed hotels ranging from miniature Gothic castles and kitschy Arabian palaces to traditional Japanese-themed inns and Balinese-inspired resorts. Although choosing where to go is the best part of visiting a love hotel (well, aside from the actual act itself), our personal favourite is a particular Car…
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St Lazarus District
Looking for a cheerful rest area amid densely populated northern Macau? Head to this beautiful district not far from the Cemetery of St Michael the Archangel. The cobbled streets and historic houses of this district offer a little taste of the sleepy Macau of old. The highlight here is the Albergue da Santa Casa da Misericórdia (aka Old Ladies’ House), home to a group of avant-garde designers working in a variety of media. It also houses the cheerful Locanda Italian restaurant in its courtyard.
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Okazaki-kōen Area
Right in the heart of the northern Higashiyama area, you'll find Okazaki-kōen, which is Kyoto's museum district, and the home of one of Kyoto's most popular shrines, Heian-jingū.
Take bus 5 from Kyoto Station or Keihan Sanjō Station and get off at the Kyoto Kaikan Bijutsu-kan-mae stop and walk north, or walk up from Keihan Sanjō Station (15 minutes). All the sights listed here are within five minutes' walk of this stop. Alternatively, take the Tōzai subway line to Higashiyama Station and walk roughly north for five minutes.
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Ninen-zaka & Sannei-zaka/ Sannen-zaka
Just below and slightly to the north of Kiyomizu-dera, you will find one of Kyoto's loveliest restored neighbourhoods, the Ninen-zaka-Sannen-zaka area. The name refers to the two main streets of the area: Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka, literally 'Two-Year Hill' and 'Three-Year Hill' (the years referring to the ancient imperial years when they were first laid out). These two charming streets are lined with old wooden houses, traditional shops and restaurants. If you fancy a break, there are many teahouses and cafes along these lanes.
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Tsuboya Pottery Area
One of the best parts of Naha is this place, a centre of ceramic production from 1682, when Ryūkyū kilns were consolidated here by royal decree. Most shops sell all the popular Okinawan ceramics, including shiisā (lion-dog roof guardians) and containers for serving awamori, the local firewater. To get here from Kokusai-dōri, walk south through the Heiwa-dōri arcade for about 350m.
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Wat Ketkaram
Chiang Mai's exalted river is Mae Ping. A community of Chinese traders and Western missionaries populated the eastern riverbank directly across from Talat Warorot. Today the neighbourhood is called Wat Ket, the nickname of the nearby temple, Wat Ketkaram. The temple was built in the 15th century and houses an eclectic museum of attic-like treasures.
If Th Charoenrat had footpaths, this area would rival the old city for its ancient ambience and tourist appeal. But speeding traffic claims the narrow space between buildings. Instead, it's best to dive deeper into the neighbourhood by going along one of the little lanes off Th Charoenrat and behind the temple.
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Nishijin
The Nishijin district is the home of Kyoto's textile industry, the source of the fantastically ornate kimonos and obi (ornamental kimono belts) for which the city is famous. It's one of Kyoto's more traditional districts, and there are still lots of good old machiya (traditional town houses) scattered about. To reach Nishijin, take bus 9 from Kyoto Station to the Horikawa Imadegawa stop.
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Talat Noi
Bordered by the river, Th Songwat, Th Charoen Krung and Th Yotha, this ancient neighbourhood is a fascinating jumble of tiny alleys, greasy machine shops and traditional architecture. Located opposite the River View Guest House, San Jao Sien Khong is one of the city's oldest Chinese shrines and also one of the best areas to be during the annual Vegetarian Festival.
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Tsuboya-yachimun-dōri
The atmospheric Tsuboya-yachimun-dōri is lined with pottery shops. The lanes off the main street here contain some classic crumbling old Okinawan houses.
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Teramachi District
This hilly neighbourhood across Sai-gawa, southwest of the centre, was established as a first line of defence and contains dozens of temples. Myōryū-ji is a five-minute walk from the river. Completed in 1643, it was designed as a hideout in case of attack, and contains hidden stairways, escape routes, secret chambers, concealed tunnels and trick doors. The popular name refers to the temple's connection with ninja. Admission is by tour only – it's in Japanese but visual enough. Take Minami Ō-dōri across the river, take a left at the first major intersection, then the first right.
Nearby, Kutani Kosen Gama Kiln is a must for pottery lovers. Short tours give a glimpse o…
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Teramachi
Between the Shianbashi shopping and nightlife area and Nakashima-gawa (the smaller of the city's two rivers), the Teramachi district is anchored at either end by Nagasaki's two best-known temples.
Sōfuku-ji was built in 1629 by Chinese monk Chaonian. Its red entrance gate (Daiippo-mon) exemplifies Ming-dynasty architecture. Inside the temple is a huge cauldron that was used to prepare food for famine victims in 1681, and a statue of Maso, goddess of the sea.
From here, it's a relaxing walk of about 1.2km to Kōfuku-ji, along a side street lined with more temples, stone walls and shops selling Buddhist articles, crafts and dolls. The temple dates from the 1620s and is noted…
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Shin-Sekai
For something completely different, take a walk through this retro entertainment district just west of Tennō-ji-kōen. At the heart of it all you'll find crusty old Tsūten-kaku, a 103m-high structure that dates back to 1912 (the present tower was rebuilt in 1969). When the tower first went up, it symbolised everything new and exciting about this once-happening neighbourhood (shin-sekai is Japanese for 'new world'). Now, Shin-Sekai is a world that time forgot, home to ancient pachinko parlours, rundown theatres, dirt-cheap restaurants and all manner of raffish and suspicious characters.
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Shinchi Chinatown
During Japan's long period of seclusion, Chinese traders were theoretically just as restricted as the Dutch, but in practice they were relatively free. Only a couple of buildings remain from the old area, but Nagasaki still has an energetic Chinese community, evident in the city's culture, architecture, festivals and cuisine. Visitors come from far and wide to eat here and shop for Chinese crafts and trinkets.
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Sanmachi-suji
The centre of the old town, this district of three main streets (Ichi-no-Machi, Ni-no-Machi and San-no-Machi) is lined with traditional shops, restaurants and museums. Sake breweries are easily recognised by the spheres of cedar fronds: some open to the public in January and early February (the schedule is available at tourist offices); most of the year they just sell their wares. For beautiful nighttime shots, bring a tripod and set your camera's exposure to long.
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Nankinmachi (Chinatown)
Nankinmachi, Kōbe's , is a gaudy, bustling, unabashedly touristy collection of Chinese restaurants and stores that should be familiar to anyone who's visited Chinatowns elsewhere in the world. The restaurants here tend to be overpriced and may disappoint sophisticated palates, but the place is fun for a stroll, particularly in the evening when the lights of the area illuminate the gaudily painted facades of the shops.
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Nakamachi
The narrow streets of this former merchant district make a fine setting for a stroll, as most of its storehouses have been transformed into cafes, galleries and craft shops specialising in wood, glass, fabric, ceramics and antiques. Nakamachi Kura-Chic-Kan is just one option, showcasing locally produced arts and crafts, with a relaxing coffee house next door.
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Nagasaki Station Area
The 26 Martyrs Memorial(日本二十六聖人殉教地) features reliefs commemorating the six Spanish and 20 Japanese crucified in 1597, when authorities cracked down on practising Christians. The youngest killed were boys aged 12 and 13. Behind the memorial is a simple Christianity-related museum.
Fukusai-ji Kannon is in the form of a huge astral turtle carrying an 18m-high figure of the goddess Kannon. Inside, a Foucault pendulum, demonstrating the rotation of the earth, hangs from the top. It's the third-largest such pendulum in the world, after those in St Petersburg and Paris. The original temple, built in 1628, was completely burnt by the A-bomb fire. The replaceme…
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Nagamachi District
Once inhabited by samurai, this attractive, well-preserved district (Nagamachi Buke Yashiki) framed by two canals features winding streets lined with tile-roofed mud walls. Nomura Samurai House, though partly transplanted from outside Kanazawa, is worth a visit for its decorative garden.
Towards Sai-gawa, Shinise Kinenkan offers a peek at a former pharmacy and, upstairs, a moderate assortment of local traditional products. If the flowering tree made entirely of candy gives you a sweet tooth, slake it at wagashi (Japanese sweet) shops. Tarō, near the Nomura Samurai House, makes unusual flavours of yōkan (bean-paste gelatin) – our favourite is choco. Murakami, across th…
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Kurokabe Square
Many of the old machiya (townhouses) and kura (storehouses) in this attractive old neighbourhood (it's not really a square) have been converted into shops and galleries highlighting the town's traditional (and modern) glass industry. Exit the east side of Nagahama Station, cross the bus boarding area towards Heiwado supermarket, walk around the supermarket to the left, then go right on the main street and take the first left after Shiga Bank; after about 100m on your right (at the corner), you will find the Kurokabe Information Centre, which has maps of the area.
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Kōbe Harbor Land & Meriken Park
Five minutes' walk southeast of Kōbe Station, Kōbe Harbor Land is awash with megamall shopping and dining developments. This may not appeal to foreign travellers the way it does to the local youth, but it's still a nice place for a stroll in the afternoon.
A five-minute walk to the east of Harbor Land you'll find Meriken Park, on a spit of reclaimed land jutting out into the bay. The main attraction here is the Kōbe Maritime Museum. The museum has a small collection of ship models and displays, with some English explanations.
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