Introducing Meghri
Strategic Meghri, Armenia’s toehold on Iran, is worth exploring for its fine stone houses. The town sits deep in the rocky, lushly irrigated gorge of the Meghri River surrounded by sawtooth peaks. The post independence borders left Meghri deeply isolated, and the local economy struggles by on remittances, farming and a bit of business from the highway to Iran. The border crossing is at the Araks bridge near Agarak (population 3500), 8km from Meghri, open all day.
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The Meghri fortress above the town dates mostly from the 18th century. The brick domes of Surp Hovannes at the Meghri town monastery date from the 17th century. In the centre of the main part of town is the fine St Astvatsatsin Church with a distinctive octagonal dome, built in the 17th century with later frescoes. There’s also the Surp Sargis Church across the river in Pokr Tagh, the smaller side of town, with two rows of columns and some delicately restored frescoes.
There are a few Russian soldiers based at Agarak with Armenian troops and officials. Most travellers come this way to cross the border but a few intrepid souls just come for a glimpse of Iran – you can see the ancient village of Noordoz (also spelt Noghdoz or Norduz) across the river, including the minarets of the local mosque. Iranian farmers and shepherds can be seen busily working on the opposite bank. Be very careful about taking pictures in the area – on our visit a Russian border guard checked our camera for sensitive photos.
It’s a slow border-crossing (it may close for lunch) but there’s no particular hassle. The Armenian side has a bank where you can change money and a few stalls selling cold drinks. There may be one or two taxis, or you could hitch a ride to Meghri.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
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