Getting there & away
The bus terminal (427044; Villegas & Juez del Valle) is a block south of the highway and 3½ blocks southwest of Plaza San Martín.
On Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 6am, Igi-Llaima takes RP 60 over Paso Tromen (also known as Mamuil Malal) to Temuco, Chile (AR$50, six hours), passing the majestic Volcán Lanín en route; sit on the left for views.
If you’re heading to Villa Traful or Bariloche in summertime, Transportes Ko-Ko regularly takes the scenic Ruta de los Siete Lagos (RN 234) instead of the longer but smoother Rinconada route. To get to Aluminé you must first change buses in Zapala.
Naviera (427380; firstname.lastname@example.org) sails from the passenger pier (Muelle de Pasajeros; Costanera MA Camino) on Av Costanera as far as Paso Hua Hum on the Chilean border, daily at 10am. A dock is currently being constructed at Hua Hum – when it is completed, passengers will be able to disembark to cross the border there. For now, you have to get off at Chachin, about an hour’s walk from Hua Hum. Departure times change annually; call the ferry company or check with the tourist office. The fare is AR$100 plus AR$15 national park fee.
Flights from Chapelco airport (428388; RN 234) to Buenos Aires cost about AR$700 if booked well in advance. Aerolíneas Argentinas (427003/04; Capitán Drury 876) flies daily except Wednesday.