Things to do in Esquel
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La Trochita
Argentina's famous narrow-gauge steam train, averages less than 30km/h on its meandering weekly journey between Esquel and El Maitén - if it runs at speed. In its current incarnation, subsidized by the city of Esquel and the governments of Río Negro and Chubut, La Trochita - which Paul Theroux facetiously called The Old Patagonian Express - provides both a tourist attraction and a service for local citizens.
Like many other state projects, completion of the line seemed an interminable process. In 1906 the federal government authorized the southern branch of the Roca line, between Puerto San Antonio on the Atlantic coast and Lago Nahuel Huapi. In 1922 Ferrocarriles del E…
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Esquel Tours
Numerous travel agencies, including Esquel Tours, sell tickets for the Circuito Lacustre boat excursion in Parque Nacional Los Alerces; buying a ticket in Esquel assures a place on the often-crowded trip.
Excursions to El Bolsón/Lago Puelo and Corcovado/Carrenleufú are also offered. Half-day trips include La Hoya's winter-sports complex; the nearby Welsh settlement of Trevelin and the Futaleufú hydroelectric complex and the narrow-gauge railway excursion to Nahuel Pan.
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Expediciones Patagonia Aventura
Expediciones Patagonia Aventura offers myriad options, for rafting and outdoor adventures, on the Río Corcovado. For class II and III rafting trips, choose either two hours on the river (with/without transport AR$150/100) or a full-day excursion that includes lunch (with/without transport AR$185/140). Once you’re there, you might want to take advantage of the peaceful surroundings: one interesting option is to stay at EPA’s riverside hostel.
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Train Museum
The Roca train station houses a free train museum. Even travelers arriving by bus or air should try to witness the arrival or departure of La Trochita, Argentina’s famous narrow-gauge steam train. In summer, several tour agencies sell tickets for roundtrip rides on the antique train.
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Tren Turístico
During summer, the Tren Turístico travels from Roca station in Esquel to Nahuel Pan, the first station down the line, 20km east. The trip takes 45 minutes. It's popular with groups so book ahead. For a small additional charge, you can organize with one of the Esquel travel agencies to return by minibus.
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Dionisio
Enjoy the eclectic, artsy atmosphere in this yellow house, ideal for a sobre mesa (table talk). There are vegetarian options but crepes, both savory and sweet, are the house specialty. The restaurant re-opens after lunch at 18:00 for tea.
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Casa Grande
Dig into flavorful jabalí (wild boar), baked trout and lamb with roasted potatoes at this fine-dining spot, specializing in regional cuisine. The rambling house with burlwood chandeliers offers plenty of atmosphere.
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Fly-Fishing
Esquel's nearby lakes and rivers offer excellent Fly-Fishing. You can purchase a license at most gas stations, including the YPF gas station (cnr 25 de Mayo & Av Ameghino; hdaylight hours) that houses the ACA.
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La Abuela
Shoehorn yourself into this family nook decked out in lace tablecloths, and enjoy cheap gnocchi and home-cooked classics like puchero (vegetable and meat stew) with a carafe of passable house wine.
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La Luna
This homey rock’n’roll restaurant-bar offers tasty spinach pizza and heaped portions of steak and fries. The evening crowd spills out of wooden booths and brick nooks, drinking Patagonia’s artisan beers.
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Killarney’s Irish Resto Pub
Don’t let the Irish-pub atmosphere fool you into thinking this is just a watering hole: Killarney’s serves up good set lunches, too, and a range of hearty soups, salads and sandwiches with the Guinness.
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El Rancho
A satisfying corner grill offering plates of mixed meats and sausages in addition to salads and varied pastas. Follow your nose - the smoky smells of barbecue permeate the block at lunch hour.
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White-water Rafting Trips
Full-day White-water Rafting Trips go to upper and lower sections of the glacial-fed Río Corcovado for float trips (class II) and serious white-water assaults (class IV).
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María Castaña
A favorite at this frilly cafe is waffles with dulce de leche; it’s also good for breakfast, sandwiches and ice-cream sundaes. Grab an overstuffed chair in the back.
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Patagonia Travel Rent A Car
Compact rental rates start around AR$100 a day, including 100km and insurance. Try Patagonia Travel Rent A Car, which has a good range of vehicles.
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Morena
Relaxed and warm, this brick yuppie watering hole is ideal for a glass of wine or cup of joe, plus decent sandwiches, pasta and pizza.
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Museo de Culturas Originarias Patagónicas
In town, there is Museo de Culturas Originarias Patagónicas, displaying a modest collection of Mapuche artifacts.
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Tierra
Ski rentals are available at Tierra for AR$40 to AR$90 per day, with performance skis at the high end.
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Empanadería Molinari
Belcha and Jorge bake mouthwatering take-out empanadas. If you can wait for a few minutes they'll heat them up.
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Coyote Bike
In summer, head to Coyote Bike for mountain-bike rentals and trail details.
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