Shopping in Argentina
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Av Las Heras
Av Las Heras is lined with souvenir shops, leather shops, chocolate stores and all sorts of places to pick up cheap Argentine trinkets. Items made of carpincho (spotted tanned hide of the capybara, a large rodent) are uniquely Argentine and sold in many of the stores.
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El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Though part of the El Ateneo chain, this is no ordinary bookstore – the Grand Splendid occupies a fabulous antique cinema and theater where Carlos Gardel, Argentina’s iconic tango legend, crooned on stage to an adoring crowd. Today, bookshelves crowd the mezzanine. Relive the theatrical magic with coffee on the 1920s-style stage.
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Perugia Bottier
In business for 50 years, this is one of Buenos Aires’ finest women’s shoe stores. The European-inspired designs are made from both Argentine and Italian leathers, and change seasonally. Shoes are handmade and take 10 days to finish; it costs about AR$650 a pair. An annex with different designs is two doors away.
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Papelera Palermo
This fashionable paper store is a dream come true for aesthetically minded writers. Stock up on handmade stationery, journals, stamped wrapping paper, stylish address books and beautiful postcards. Cowhide notebooks and tongue-in-cheek Evita photo albums also make unorthodox vacation mementos.
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Prüne
The Microcentro’s pedestrian thoroughfares are jammed with leather shops and outlets, but Prüne’s collection is easily the most sophisticated and contemporary. This downtown branch of the high-end line is one-stop shopping for distressed leather accessories from wide belts to shoulder bags.
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Guido Mocasines
Men have been coming to Guido’s for over 50 years, buying some of the highest-quality hand-made shoes in the country. Styles are a bit conservative, but they’ll make your feet the best-dressed at the office. There are a few women’s shoes, as well as some bags and belts.
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Casa Lopez
For boots and briefcases that’ll last a lifetime, head to Casa Lopez, a shop that’s been selling high-quality leather jackets, luggage, bags and accessories since 1943. Go elsewhere for youthful fashion – the style here is conservative and classic.
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Puerto de Frutos
Check out the Puerto de Frutos, where vendors sell mostly housewares, wicker baskets and dried flowers, along with a modest selection of fruits. Weekends are best, when a large crafts fair sets up.
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Autoría
This cool designers’ showcase, stocked with make-a-statement silver jewelry, edgy art books and whimsical leather desk sculptures, brings a welcome taste of the avant-garde to this suit-and-tie neighborhood.
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Lo de Joaquin Alberdi
Excellent wine shop in Palermo Soho that carries only Argentine brands. Wine tastings with food pairings happen on Thursday.
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Mercado de Pulgas del Bajo
A small flea market by the tourist office, where dealers sell everything from silverwork to leather goods.
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Feria de Mataderos
Located way out in the western suburbs, the lighthearted folk festival Feria de Mataderos will take almost an hour to reach by bus 155 or 126 – but the journey’s worth it. Brilliantly costumed teenagers perform folkloric dances on stage while gauchos on horseback compete in traditional contests and local ladies dish out hearty country-style food and sweet patero wine. Over 100 craft stalls sell affordable handmade treasures from horse-hoof ashtrays to leather and metalwork; indulge yourself along the strip of gourmet food stalls where vendors offer free samples of dulce de leche liqueur, cheeses, and homemade liquors. For details on upcoming festivals, check their…
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Feria Artesanal
Local craftspeople sell their wares at this market, along the south end of Plaza Pagano, which boasts over 320 artists, who make and sell everything from wooden cutting boards and handcrafted mate gourds to jewelry, flutes and marionettes. With numerous food vendors (adhering to the regulation that everything sold in the market must be handmade), it’s a chance to sample local delicacies. On sunny Sundays the feria operates about half-tilt.
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Tealosophy
Following in the grand tradition of Londoners and society ladies, porteñas have taken to the ritual of afternoon tea. Which isn’t to say that mate is on its way out, mind you – taking a break for chamomile and crumpets is just another excuse for these highly social souls to get together and discuss whether or not the president has had plastic surgery. If you’re short on time, pick up the trendiest tea leaves in town at the charming Tealosophy.
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Feria de Anticuarios
This cute antiques market, in the northern suburb of Acassuso, has goods cheaper than the Feria de San Telmo and it’s also smaller and less crowded. Dig through old silverwork, records, books, small collectibles, lighting fixtures and antique hardware. The best way here is on the Tren de la Costa, which begins in Olivos at Estación Maipú; get to this train station from downtown via buses 59, 60 and 152 (or take the regular Mitre train line to Tren de la Costa).
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María Vázquez
One of the better-known Argentine designers, María Vázquez creates lingerielike cocktail dresses in thin silks, lacy cotton and smooth satin. Details such as beads, sequins and glitter add a catchy sheen to her sexy productions, which also include signature jeans. Celebrities such as Shakira, Xuxa and Naomi Campbell have claimed her threads. There are other branches in shopping malls around town.
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Sabater Hermanos
Step into this little storefront and let both your eyes and nose be entertained by rows and rows of deliciously scented soaps. Bars of various shapes and sizes come in flavors like chocolate, green tea, rose, lavender, strawberry and lime (our favorite). A special and unique gift for mom would be the soap ‘leaves’ – small slivers of soap for one-time use. Cute kids’ soaps too.
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Baruzzi Deportes
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Martín Pescador
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Six Feet
Urban skater fashion has hit BA hard at this sporty hipster’s boutique heaven. Slip into a pair of reversible shorts, trendy stenciled T-shirt or Vans-type shoes. Quality is high and the designs are well thought out. It’s all men’s clothing, though tough chicks wouldn’t look bad in some of these fashions, either. Check out the outlet down the street at Gurruchaga 1653.
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Winery
One of several slick chain stores that offer a large selection of Argentine wines. Some branches have attractive wine bars where you can taste certain selections; at this location sample up to 20 different wines by the glass (five for AR$30). The café and wine shop are upstairs, the modern lounge-restaurant downstairs. There’s another branch with just a café in the Microcentro.
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Puntos en el Espacio
Racks of original edgy unisex collections by rising stars in the local fashion world line the walls of this concrete-floored space. Consider making a playful fashion statement with a pair of purple boots from the Hacer Pie line or a leather wallet lined with polka dot fabric. Also see the accessories-focused location on the corner of Defensa and Independencia.
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Airedelsur
The rustic chic airedelsur label was beloved by porteños long before it was featured in Vogue. Designer Marcelo Lucini collaborates with Argentine craftsmen to create stunningly original home decor made with alpaca silver, wood, onyx and other all-natural materials. Queen Rania of Jordan reportedly picked up more than 200 pieces for her palaces.
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El Coleccionista
This small place has an eclectic selection of jazz, blues, salsa, Celtic and symphonic rock CDs. It will buy used musical instruments, so trade in that guitar, drum or bandoneón (a kind of accordion) you’re tired of lugging around. Staff are knowledgeable and you can pick up the business cards of teachers offering guitar classes.
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925 Galería
For showy, ‘look-at-me’ jewelry, there’s this small but shiny storefront. Inside, thick silver bracelets with glittery faux diamonds and semiprecious stones will tempt the princess in you, as will the dinner plate–sized rings. All pieces, from earrings to necklaces, are unique. Classes in jewelry-making available as well.
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