San Isidro

Introducing San Isidro

About 22km north of Buenos Aires is peaceful and residential San Isidro, a charming suburb of cobblestone streets lined with graceful buildings. The historic center is at Plaza Mitre and its beautiful neo-Gothic cathedral; on weekends the area buzzes with a crafts fair. There’s a tourist office (4512-3209; www.sanisidro.gov.ar; Ituzaingo 608) at the plaza near Av Libertador, next to the rugby museum.

A stroll through the rambling neighborhood streets behind the cathedral will turn up some luxurious mansions (as well as more-modest houses) and the occasional view over toward the coast. Close by is also the Tren de la Costa’s San Isidro station, with a fashionable outdoor shopping mall to explore.

Once owned by Argentine icon, General Pueyrredón, the Museo Histórico Municipal General Pueyrredón (4512-3131; Rivera Indarte 48; admission free; 2-6pm Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun) is an old colonial villa set on spacious grounds with faraway views of the Río de la Plata. Don’t miss the algarrobo tree under which Pueyrredón and San Martín strategized against the Spanish. To get here from the cathedral, follow Av Libertador five blocks, turn left on Peña and after two blocks turn right onto Rivera Indarte.

Even more glamorous is the Unesco site Villa Ocampo (4732-4988; www.villaocampo.org; Elortondo 1837; admission AR$10; 3-7pm Sat-Sun), a wonderfully restored mansion and reminder of a bygone era. Victoria Ocampo was a writer, publisher and intellectual who dallied with the literary likes of Borges, Cortázar, Sabato and Camus. The gardens are lovely here; tours and a café are also available.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009