Restaurants in Argentina
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A
Kaupé
For an out-of-body seafood experience, head to this candlelit house overlooking the bay. Chef Ernesto Vivian employs the freshest of everything and service is impeccable. The tasting menu (AR$360 with wine and champagne) features two starters, a main dish and dessert, with standouts such as king crab and spinach chowder or black sea bass in blackened butter.
reviewed
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B
Cumaná
This bright, upbeat eatery is one of the only places in town serving traditional dishes from far-flung provinces of Argentina. The hearty criollo (Spanish/Indian) cuisine baking in the adobe oven includes locro, a thick corn-based stew made with meat and vegetables. Don’t miss the humita, a creamy cheese and corn mixture wrapped up in corncob leaves.
reviewed
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C
El Boliche de Alberto
It’s worth dining at this esteemed parrilla simply to see the astonished look on tourists’ faces when a slab of beef the size of a football lands on the table; it’s the AR$70 bife de chorizo (the AR$60 portion is plenty).
reviewed
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D
El Desnivel
Eating at dirt-cheap Desnivel is a rite of passage. The convivial parrilla atmosphere is buoyed by deadpan waiters, a mix of hungry locals and eager tourists, the skill and speed of the overworked guys on the grill, and – of course – the affordable beef, sizzling provoleta (grilled provolone) and fried empanadas.
reviewed
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E
Campo Bravo
While this chic parrilla (grill restaurant) is a relaxing place to tackle a huge steak or a pasta during the day, at night it's a very different beast indeed. While the staff remain cool, on a busy night you can wait up to an hour for a table - it's the price you pay for hanging with the most stylish crowd in Las Cañitas.
reviewed
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F
Gran Bar Danzon
Gran Bar Danzon is the kind of place you drop by with the intention of trying a glass of wine or two with friends – but thanks to the cool urban atmosphere, you’re still there four hours later, sampling sushi and confit of duck and pretending not to stare at the parade of pretty people squeezing past your table.
reviewed
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G
El Cuartito
Since 1934, this legendary pizzeria has seen local men polishing off slices at the counter and families sharing fresh empanadas (savory-filled pastries) at tables, surrounded by faded images of sportsmen.
reviewed
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Cabaña Las Lilas
Porteños are evenly split as to whether this famous eatery is a fantastically overpriced display of hubris or an upmarket example of parrilla perfection. Tellingly, even those who deride this large waterside restaurant won’t hesitate to thumb through the jumbo wine list, especially if the meal’s on someone else’s dime. The fine beef was raised on the restaurant’s own estancia (ranch).
reviewed
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I
Siga la Vaca
Only the truly hungry should set foot in this excellent all-you-can-stuff parrilla. Work your way from the appetizer salad bar to the grill, where the meat hangs out. Eat slowly and pace yourself, and you’ll only need to eat once that day. One drink and a dessert are included in the price, which varies depending on the meal and day.
reviewed
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J
Oviedo
The sole and sea bass at Oviedo are so fresh they’re practically still flopping around. Prepared with contemporary Spanish flair and paired with cold white wine, fish takes center stage at this fine dining institution –although melt-in-your-mouth pork dishes are also worth writing home about.
reviewed
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Bio
So your better half’s a devoted carnivore but you’re dying for green cuisine? Don’t drag them kicking and screaming to an extreme organic eatery, just take them to Bio for fantastically fresh pastas and salads. The homemade ginger lemonade is heavenly.
reviewed
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La Casona
The cozy atmosphere belies the wide menu, with some good twists on regional favorites. Try the boar stew in black-beer sauce or the lamb and wild mushroom risotto.
reviewed
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Pura Vida
Featuring the rare treat of Argentine home cooking, this offbeat, low-lit eatery is a must. Even after years of success, the owners can be found cooking up buttery spiced chicken pot pies and filling wine glasses. For vegetarians, brown rice and wok veggies or various salads are satisfying, but don’t skip the decadent chocolate brownie steeped in warm berry sauce and ice cream for dessert. Reserve ahead.
reviewed
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L
La Cabrera
If you eat at only one steakhouse in BA, make it this one. Some of the city's best meats are grilled up and presented to you on wooden boards, and in huge portions, along with a few dainty condiments (olives, sun-dried tomatoes, goat's cheese) on the side. The ambience is elegant, and considerably less stuffy than most Palermo Viejo eateries.
reviewed
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La Lechuza
A world away from its trendy Palermo Viejo neighbors, this classic joint holds on to tradition and offers a breath of fresh air from overpriced, over-hip restaurants. A gamut of funky art adorns the walls, from amateur owl paintings (lechuza means ‘owl’) to photos of Carlos Gardel and cheap cabaret posters. Food is good, with solid parrilla – the seso (brain)-ball appetizers aren’t half bad – but be sure to order soda in siphon bottles for the full old-time experience. A mostly male hangout, but women are perfectly welcome, also.
reviewed
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La Esquina de Las Flores
One of BA’s most enduring vegetarian alternatives, this modern restaurant also has a small health food store on the ground floor that sells soy flour, whole-wheat breads and organic mate (tea), among other things. There’s a small fast-food section, but if you prefer more relaxed surroundings, go upstairs and choose from the tasty and nutritious menu. There’s even a dish for macrobiotics. There’s another branch at Gurruchaga 1630 in Palermo, where free workshops on healthy cooking are occasionally available.
reviewed
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O
Mott
One of Palermo Viejo’s slickest new joints, Mott revels in its huge airy spaces and contemporary lines. It’s attention-grabbing open facade makes it a very popular spot to see and be seen, especially at the gorgeous bar. Chef Maria Lancio whips up exotic selections like rabbit with roasted egg, salmon in pumpkin cream and spinach-mousse sorrentinos – which might sound better than they really are – but with the people and atmosphere around you so beautiful, who cares about your taste buds?
reviewed
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Osaka
Sick of the same old cheap steaks? Then Osaka is your remedy, slicing up some of BA’s most exquisite cold, raw fish – and so much more. Catapulting Peruvian and Japanese cuisines together into a whole new level of creativity, Osaka ponies up sublime fusions that look like works of art and taste out of this world. You’ll have to experience it to believe it, so reserve a week in advance, load up the bank account and clear out those parrilla-worn taste buds.
reviewed
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Q
La Estancia
For the full-on tourist experience, you can’t do better than La Estancia. Stop by the picture window and snap a photo of yourself in front of the huge spits of roasting meat, then step into the large dining room, have a seat and enjoy the murals. This steakhouse has been serving up grilled goods for decades, but there are also substantial salads for the meek. Though it might seem like a tourist trap, the meat is good and it’s fun enough to be worth it.
reviewed
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R
Arte Sano
This small, bright and pleasant health-food eatery cooks up excellent dishes, such as a zucchini, eggplant and tomato tart, soy burgers and veggie stir-fry. Desserts are good for the body, like the yogurt with granola or fruit salad. The tiny bakery attached sells things like brown rice, powdered ginger and whole-wheat breads. Also on offer are yoga, tai chi and dance classes, along with natural food workshops (for more info, see www.artesano-naturista.com.ar).
reviewed
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Los Puestos
Though a little touristy – we can’t guarantee you won’t be treated to a rendition of ‘Sounds of Silence’ on the panpipes at lunchtime – this makes up ground with its decor of local stone and chunky wood. Tasty regional specialties feature heavily – barbecued llama (AR$24) is one – but it’s small touches, such as tiny bread rolls straight from the clay oven, that win friends.
reviewed
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S
Museo del Jamón
There's something comforting and inviting about old-school Spanish eateries such as Museo del Jamón. Perhaps it's the hanging hams that you know are soon destined to be carved for a delicious plate of crudo (raw proscuitto), or it's the thought that as you wait a delicious paella is being prepared for you while you graze some tapas. Perfect for a rainy BA day.
reviewed
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Tarquino
Built entirely of Patagonian cypress, this esteemed restaurant resembles a hobbit house with its wood stairway, carved wooden doorway, fireplace and troll-like architecture. The small menu is almost entirely parrillada (including a delicious cordero, or grilled lamb), though a pasta and a trout dish grace the menu as well. One of Bariloche’s best.
reviewed
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La Nueva Colonial
Enough reason to delay your departure, chef Cesar’s outstanding pastas (we recommend the sorrentinos with pesto) are divine creations, served up with fresh foccacia bread and a bottle of red. And if you don’t like it, it’s free (but a hard argument to make). He also prepares massive pepper steaks, salads and generous-sized desserts.
reviewed
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Broccolino
Pick from over 25 sauces (including squid ink!) for your pasta, with a choice of rigatoni, fusilli, pappardelle and all sorts of stuffed varieties. If you can’t decide on your topper, try the delicious Sicilian sauce (spicy red peppers, tomato and garlic) or the pesto with mushrooms and garlic. Portions are large and the bread homemade.
reviewed