Things to do in Tucumán
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Fon Restaurante
The lunchtime buffet at this vegetarian restaurant has mostly Chinese dishes, with a few local favorites such as ensalada rusa (Russian salad) and empanadas thrown in. It’s not gourmet, but it does the job.
reviewed
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Casa de la Independencia
Unitarist lawyers and clerics (Federalists boycotted the meeting) declared Argentina’s independence from Spain on July 9, 1816, in the dazzlingly whitewashed late-colonial Casa de la Independencia. Portraits of the signatories line the walls of the room where the declaration was signed, the only actual original part of the structure – the rest has been rebuilt. There’s plenty of information in Spanish on the lead-up to these seismic events, but you can also get a guided tour (free) in English.
reviewed
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San José de Lules
Until 1767, San José de Lules was a Jesuit reducción (Indian settlement created by Spanish missionaries) among the region's Lule Indians. After the Jesuits' expulsion, the Dominicans assumed control of the complex - their ruins, which date from the 1880s, once served as a school. The small museum has replicas of colonial documents and a plethora of busts of various Argentine independence heroes.
reviewed
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Cathedral
Tucumán’s neoclassical cathedral is a handsome presence on Plaza Independencia, and has a Doric facade with a pediment depicting the Exodus. Curiously, Moses is receiving bunches of grapes in the desert; a reference to the fertility of Tucumán’s surrounding area. The interior has a petite wooden choir, cheerily alive ceiling paintings, and a canvas of the Annunciation behind the altar.
reviewed
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La Leñita
One of the best parrilla restaurants around in this part of the world, this wins few points for interior design (who thought the sports bar look was a good idea?), but stands out for service and the sheer quality of the meat. Try picanha (rump steak) or the delicious mollejitas (sweetbreads). Sit strategically to avoid the air-con’s arctic wind.
reviewed
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Termas de Río Hondo
Termas de Río Hondo's main attraction is its thermal springs, and even the most basic accommodation has hot mineral baths. Very much a destination for Argentine tourists, Río Hondo is not as interesting for international visitors. That said, you'll be comfortable in the off-season with bargain-basement prices, as competition between hotels is hot.
reviewed
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Casa del Obispo Colombres
In the center of Parque 9 de Julio (formerly Bishop Colombres’ El Bajo plantation), handsome 18th-century Casa del Obispo Colombres is a museum dedicated to the sugar industry, which the active cleric (an important figure in the independence movement) effectively set up. The information panels are translated into English.
reviewed
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Peña El Cardón
This historical and traditional peña gives a good idea of what these places were like before they started putting on touristy shows. There are regular cultural events, a pretty patio and delicious empanadas. Live folklore music on Fridays and Saturdays starts about 10pm, goes very late and gets rowdy.
reviewed
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Setimio
Wall-to-wall wine bottles decorate this smart wine shop and restaurant, whose short menu features a pair of posh salads, chicken stirfry, crusted salmon and other toothsome delights. Several wines are available by the glass, and you can pick any of the several hundred bottles from the shelves for a AR$6 corkage fee.
reviewed
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Casa Padilla
Alongside the Casa de Gobierno, this partly restored mid-19th-century house first belonged to provincial governor José Frías (1792–1874), then to his mayor son-in-law Ángel Padilla. A display of European art, Chinese porcelain and period furniture make up the collection housed by the museum.
reviewed
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Il Postino
Pizza and pasta are served with panache in this atmospheric brick warehouse eatery. It’s popular with all, and you often have to wait for a table. It’s worth it: the standard (of the pizza especially) is sky-high. It also serves various tapas-sized portions. There’s another branch nearby at Junín 86.
reviewed
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La Sirio-Libanesa
The restaurant at the Syrian-Lebanese society offers tasty Levantine cuisine that makes a welcome change of scene. Mashed eggplant, tasty kipe naye (marinated raw mincemeat) and tabouleh salad all feature; the set lunch is AR$19 and there are several other set menus, as well as à la carte.
reviewed
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Harris
On a busy corner, this is a popular hangout for smartly-dressed tucumanos. The interior is padded seats and elegant dark wood; outside, the tables and chairs are at the very top of the Coca-Cola range. Excellent mixed drinks and good coffee; the food is also more than passable.
reviewed
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Museo Folclórico Manuel Belgrano
Occupying a colonial house, pleasant Museo Folclórico Manuel Belgrano features a good collection of traditional gaucho gear, indigenous musical instruments (check out the charangos made from an armadillo shell) and weavings, as well as some indigenous pottery.
reviewed
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Costumbres Argentinas
Though the address seems like a contradiction in terms, this unusual, popular and welcoming bar has an arty bohemian vibe and sometimes puts on live music. There’s a big two-level beer garden out the back, which is the place to be on summer nights. Simple food is also available.
reviewed
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Plaza de Almas
This intimate and engaging multilevel place is popular with bohemian young tucumanos and is one of the best of Tucumán’s many combination cafe-bar-restaurant-cultural centers. The short but interesting menu offers a range of kebabs and salads, among other choices.
reviewed
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El Alto de la Lechuza
Founded in 1939 and billing itself as Argentina’s oldest peña, this place offers standard parrilla and pasta fare, plus a few regional specialties. The real reason to come here, though, is the music: the venue has hosted many Argentine luminaries.
reviewed
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Café Pigalle
If you want to blend in in Tucumán, you'd better have an ice cream in your hand at all times. This place on the plaza does some of the best, and also offers a daily dessert special that is usually extremely sweet and sticky and good.
reviewed
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Künstner
A blessed relief it is to step off this noisy, fume-filled street into the gentle aromas of malt and hops. Four tasty beers are brewed in this convivial spot, which also serves fine cheap food such as milanesas, pasta and pizza.
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Héctor Heredia
A reader-recommended mountain guide. Héctor (also known as 'El Oso' or 'the Bear') can arrange extended treks, including the beautiful, accessible four-day hike from Tucumán to Tafí del Valle.
reviewed
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Filipo
Glasses gleaming on the gantry, outdoor tables and bow-tied waiters make this a great cafe. The espresso is superlative, and the apple licuados (blended fruit drinks) deserve a prize.
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El Portal
Half a block east of Plaza Independencia, this rustic indoor/outdoor eatery has a tiny but perfectly formed menu, based around empanadas, locro and the like. Delicious and authentic.
reviewed
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Los Hornos
Round the corner from the main eating drag, this does family-friendly minutas (quick meals), as well as tasty empanadas and parrilla choices at a good price.
reviewed
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Bamboo
Cheery in apple green, this place does tasty breakfasts, sandwiches, iced fruit smoothies and salads to eat in or takeout – there’s a little patio space, too.
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Montañas Tucumanas
A cordial and professional setup, this offers hiking, climbing, canyoning, rappelling and more, both in locations near Tucumán and further afield.
reviewed
