Things to do in Tilcara
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Caravana de Llamas
Based in the Posada de Luz, Caravana de Llamas is a recommended llama-trekking operator running half-day excursions (AR$140) around Tilcara, day trips in the Salinas Grandes (AR$180) and multiday excursions, including a five-day marathon from Las Yungas lowlands to Tilcara (AR$1750 to AR$2600). The guide is personable and well informed about the area. Llamas are pack animals: you walk, they carry the bags.
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Hike to Garganta del Diablo
Of several interesting walks around Tilcara, the most popular is the two-hour hike to Garganta del Diablo, a pretty canyon and waterfall. Head toward the pucará, but turn left along the river before crossing the bridge. The path to the Garganta leaves this road to the left just after a sign that says 'Cuide la flora y fauna'. Swimming is best in the morning, when the sun is on the pool.
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Los Puestos
Though a little touristy – we can’t guarantee you won’t be treated to a rendition of ‘Sounds of Silence’ on the panpipes at lunchtime – this makes up ground with its decor of local stone and chunky wood. Tasty regional specialties feature heavily – barbecued llama (AR$24) is one – but it’s small touches, such as tiny bread rolls straight from the clay oven, that win friends.
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Pucará
The reconstructed pre-Columbian fortification, the pucará, is 1km south of the center across an iron bridge. Its situation is undeniably strategic, commanding the river valley both ways and, though the site was undoubtedly used before, the ruins date from the 11th to 15th centuries. The 1950s reconstruction has taken liberties; worse yet is the earlier, ridiculous monument to pioneering archaeologists bang where the plaza would have been. Nevertheless, you can get a feel of what would have been a sizable fortified community. Most interesting is the ‘church, ’ a building with a short paved walkway to an altar; note the niche in the wall alongside. The site itself has grea…
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Museo Arqueológico
The Universidad de Buenos Aires runs the well-presented Museo Arqueológico of regional artifacts. There are some artifacts from the pucará, and exhibits give an insight into the life of people living around that time. The room dedicated to ceremonial masks is particularly impressive. The museum is in a striking colonial house on Plaza Prado.
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Música Esperanza
This outreach-via-music NGO puts on regular concerts and also runs a pretty little restaurant in this cultural center on the main street. Quinoa stew and local trout are among the dishes presented. Opening hours are somewhat irregular; call ahead or drop by.
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Rincón del Colla
Easily recognizable next to the church with its cheerful murals, this is a restaurant that has raucous live folklorica in the evenings. It's not to everyone's decibel comfort, but writers have highly praised the rabbit stew.
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Peña de Carlitos
Hit the corner of the square for this cheery longstanding local restaurant, which offers live folkloric music with no cover charge every night, more of a mix of locals and visitors than in most places, and low-priced regional dishes.
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Museo José Antonio Terry
Museo José Antonio Terry is largely devoted to the work of a porteño (resident of Buenos Aires) painter whose themes were largely rural and indigenous; his oils depict weavers, market scenes and portraits.
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El Patio
Tucked away between the plaza and the church, this has a lovely shaded patio and garden seating. It offers a wide range of tasty salads, inventive llama dishes and a far-from-the-madding-crowd atmosphere.
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Tilcara Mountain Bike
Tilcara Mountain Bike is a friendly setup just past the bus terminal that hires out well-maintained mountain bikes (AR$8/40 per hour/day) and provides a helpful map of trips in the area.
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Escuela Gastronómica del Norte Argentino
This hospitality school restaurant offers earnest service and a short but inventive menu of mostly local ingredients like corn lasagne and local trout.
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