Things to do in Salta
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Pajcha – Museo de Arte Étnico Americano
This eye-opening private museum is a must-see if you’re interested in indigenous art and culture. Six exquisitely presented rooms present contemporary and recent artisanal work from all over Latin America. The quality of the pieces (which include amazing macaw-feather creations, religious sculpture from the Cuzco school, tools of the trade of Bolivian kallawaya healers and finely crafted Mapuche silver jewelry) is extraordinarily high, testament to decades of study and collection by the anthropologist founder. It’s an exquisite dose of color and beauty, and run with great enthusiasm by the English-speaking management, who will give you a worthwhile guided tour for an ex…
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Tren a las Nubes
From Salta, the Tren a las Nubes (Train to the Clouds) ascends the multicolored Quebrada del Toro, continuing past the important ruins of Tastil. The track makes countless switchbacks and even spirals, passing through 21 tunnels more than 3000m (9842ft) in total length, and crossing 31 iron bridges and 13 viaducts.
The trip's highlight is a stunning viaduct which is 64m (210ft) high and 224m (735ft) long, and spans an enormous desert canyon at La Polvorilla - a magnificent engineering achievement unjustified on any reasonable economic grounds. At Abra Chorillos, an altitude of 4575m (15,010ft) makes this the fourth highest operating line in the world.
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Museo Histórico del Norte
Set on the plaza in the cabildo, the Museo Histórico del Norte has a collection that ranges from pre-Columbian ceramics through to colonial-era religious painting and sculpture (admire the fine pulpit from Salta’s Jesuit church), and displays on Salta in the 19th and 20th centuries. The endless series of portraits of Salta’s governors wouldn’t be out of place in a beard-and-moustache museum, while the transportation collection includes a somber hearse used for children’s funerals and an enormous 1911 Renault that puts any Hummer to shame. The building itself, with cobbled patio and gallery overlooking the plaza, is lovely.
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Reserva del Huaico
This 60-hectare cloud forest reserve is in San Lorenzo, 8km west of Salta, and run by a not-for-profit nature foundation. Entry is by appointment only and includes a four-hour guided walk along the reserve’s 15km of trails. Despite Salta’s proximity, the bird-watching is extraordinarily good: more than 205 species have been recorded, with 100 of those – including guans, tanagers, parrots, hummingbirds and woodpeckers – all common. A taxi from Salta costs AR$20, or you can get any San Lorenzo–bound bus (AR$1.25). Get off at the municipalidad (city hall) and it’s a 1km walk along Mariano Moreno to the reserve.
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Parque Nacional Finca El Rey
Confined to a narrow strip no wider than about 50km (31mi), Argentina's subtropical humid forests extend from the Bolivian frontier south of Tarija almost to the border of Tucumán and Catamarca provinces. Comprising 44,000 hectares (108,726 acres), Parque Nacional Finca El Rey is the southernmost Argentine park protecting this unusual habitat, the most biologically diverse in the country.
The best time to visit the national park is between April and October - it's a bit cooler, but much drier! For all inquiries, contact the park office in Salta (España 366, 3rd fl).
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Iglesia San Francisco
The magenta-and-yellow Iglesia San Francisco is Salta’s most striking landmark. The exuberant facade is topped by a slender tower; inside, the single nave is ornately painted to resemble stucco-work. There are several much-venerated images here, including the Niño Jesús de Aracoeli, a rather spooky crowned figure. There’s a lovely garden cloister, accessed via guided tour (which run on demand in Spanish; donation appropriate) that takes in a mediocre museum of religious art and treasures.
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Patio de la Empanada
It’s a toss-up between Salta and Tucumán for Argentina’s best empanadas, but they’re wickedly toothsome in both places. Locals debate the merits of fried (in an iron skillet – juicier) or baked (in a clay oven – tastier). Numerous places specialize in them, including the peñas. The taxi drivers’ favorite is Patio de la Empanada, where various stalls surround an indoor-outdoor eating area; a dozen will set you back AR$15.
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Valles Calchaquíes
Definitely one of Argentina's most appealing off-the-beaten-track areas, the Valles Calchaquíes combines striking natural landscapes with unique cultural and historical resources. The vernacular architecture here merits special attention - even modest adobe houses might have Neoclassical columns and/or Moorish arches. The town of Cachi is the most accessible and pleasant to wander around, and the bus trip isn't bad either.
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Café del Tiempo
Decked out to resemble a Buenos Aires cafe, this has prices to match but offers a stylish terrace in the heart of the Balcarce zone; a top spot for a drink. There’s some sort of performance or live music every night. Most of the dishes – including international offerings such as chop suey, sushi and ceviche – are designed to share, and the picadas (shared appetizer plates) are great for a group.
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José Balcarce
Exposed stone walls, ambient music and solicitous service set the scene for a satisfying gourmet dining experience here. Starters like llama carpaccio could be followed by sea bass with passionfruit and ginger, or other highland-type dishes involving lamb or trout. The wine list sees each grape variety described in human terms – merlot is a sensitive listener, with gay tendencies. Close to Salta’s best.
reviewed
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Catedral
Salta’s pink catedral was consecrated in 1878 and harbors the ashes of (among other notables) General Martín Miguel de Güemes, a salteño (resident of Salta) and independence hero; even today, the gauchos of Salta province proudly flaunt their red-striped ponchos de güemes (traditional Salta ponchos). The high baroque altarpiece is the other central feature.
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Cerro San Bernardo Teleférico
For outstanding views of Salta and its surroundings, take the teleférico from Parque San Martín to the top of Cerro San Bernardo. A trail that takes you up the hill begins at the Güemes monument at the top of Paseo Güemes. Atop is a confitería (cafe offering light meals), whose terrace has the best views, a watercourse and artesanía shops.
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Sayta
This estancia 40km from Salta runs excellent horseback-riding days, with optional asado (barbecue grill). It’s also a place you can stay to experience a taste of Argentine gaucho life. A half-day with/without lunch costs AR$170/125, and full-board accommodation for a night is AR$230 (with a day’s riding AR$345). Prices include transfers from Salta.
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Museo de Bellas Artes
Salta's fine art museum is lodged in the Arias Rengel family's two-story colonial mansion, with its 2m (6.6ft) thick adobe walls. It displays both modern painting and sculpture, and has far more interesting work than the contemporary arts museum. The interior patio features a sculpture garden and a wooden staircase that leads to a hanging balcony.
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El Solar del Convento
Warmly decorated and popular, this reliable touristy choice offers solicitous service – the free apéritif wins points – and a varied menu. It specializes in lomo (sirloin) with tasty sauces, and also has fish dishes and parrillada (mixed grill including steak) options. The wine list offers lots of (priced-up) provincial choices.
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Convento de San Bernardo
Only Carmelite nuns may enter 16th-century Convento de San Bernardo, but visitors can approach the blindingly whitewashed adobe building (consider sunglasses) to admire the carved, 18th-century algarrobo door. The church, too, is open for visits before Mass early weekday mornings, Saturday evenings and Sunday mornings.
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Salta and Jujuy Highlights
4 days (Salta)
Experience the best of Salta and Jujuy in North West Argentina.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$690 -
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Clark Expediciones
Professional agency offering trips with highly competent English-speaking guides to the region’s national parks and remote uplands. They’re serious about bird-watching; trips include a half/full day in the Reserva Huaico (US$70/140), two days to Parque Nacional El Rey (US$340) and multiday tailored itineraries. Book well ahead.
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Viejo Jack
Far enough out of the tourist zone to be authentic, but not so far it’s a pain in the backside to get to, this is a down-to-earth spot very popular with locals for its parrillada and pasta. The serves are huge – designed for two – but you’ll get a single portion (still a big slab of meat) for 70% of the price.
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Museo Antropológico
Just above the Güemes monument, on the lower slopes of Cerro San Bernardo, is the friendly Museo Antropológico. It has good representations of local ceramics, especially from the Tastil ruins (Argentina’s largest pre-Inca town), and some well-designed displays in its attractive, purpose-built spaces.
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New Time Café
In the race for the accolade of Salta’s best plaza cafe, this two-level corner spot wins by several lengths. It offers shady (in the afternoon) tables, great views of the cabildo, Cerro San Bernardo and cathedral, and wi-fi. It also serves coffee and food, though it isn’t the cheapest. Live music some nights.
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Salta Rafting
Runs two-hour white-water rafting trips on the Class III Río Juramento, 100km from Salta (AR$150 including a barbecue lunch; transportation to/from Salta AR$60 extra). At the same location are spectacular 400m ziplines across a canyon (four-/nine-line trip AR$120/180). Also runs mountain-biking excursions.
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La Leñita
This popular parrilla hits meaty heights on what is a hit-and-miss dining street. There’s fine carne (meat), with a wide range of cuts, and solicitous service whether you’re in a suit or singlet. The versatile staff serenade diners with Salta folklore halfway through dinner.
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Iglesia Catedral
Salta's 19th-century cathedral harbors the ashes of General Martín Miguel de Güemes, a Salteño and independence hero, as well as those of other important historical figures; even today, the gauchos of the Salta province proudly flaunt their red-striped ponchos de güemes.
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La Céfira
This handsomely styled dining room a few blocks south of the center is a cut far above the usual gnocchi-with-four-cheese-sauce joints. Delicious homemade pasta includes such temptations as squid-ink ravioli with crab, or spinach fettuccini with salmon and caper sauce. Tasty salads seal the deal.
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