Sights in Quebrada De Humahuaca
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Pucará
The reconstructed pre-Columbian fortification, the pucará, is 1km south of the center across an iron bridge. Its situation is undeniably strategic, commanding the river valley both ways and, though the site was undoubtedly used before, the ruins date from the 11th to 15th centuries. The 1950s reconstruction has taken liberties; worse yet is the earlier, ridiculous monument to pioneering archaeologists bang where the plaza would have been. Nevertheless, you can get a feel of what would have been a sizable fortified community. Most interesting is the ‘church, ’ a building with a short paved walkway to an altar; note the niche in the wall alongside. The site itself has grea…
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La Posta de Hornillos
Part of a chain that ran from Lima to Buenos Aires during viceregal times, La Posta de Hornillos is a beautifully restored staging post 11km south of Tilcara. Founded in 1772, it was the scene of several important battles during the wars of independence, and remained an important stop on the road to Bolivia until 1908, when the La Quiaca railway opened. The interesting exhibits include leather suitcases, some impressively fierce swords and a fine 19th-century carriage.
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Museo Arqueológico
The Universidad de Buenos Aires runs the well-presented Museo Arqueológico of regional artifacts. There are some artifacts from the pucará, and exhibits give an insight into the life of people living around that time. The room dedicated to ceremonial masks is particularly impressive. The museum is in a striking colonial house on Plaza Prado.
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Monumento a la Independencia
From the plaza, a staircase climbs to the Monumento a la Independencia, a vulgarity produced by local sculptor Ernesto Soto Avendaño. The sculpture exemplifies indigenismo, a widespread tendency in Latin American art that romantically but patronizingly extols the virtues of native cultures overwhelmed by colonialism.
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Museo José Antonio Terry
Museo José Antonio Terry is largely devoted to the work of a porteño (resident of Buenos Aires) painter whose themes were largely rural and indigenous; his oils depict weavers, market scenes and portraits.
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Cabildo
The lovably knobbly cabildo is famous for its clocktower, where a life-size figure of San Francisco Solano emerges at noon to deliver a benediction. Be sure to arrive early; the clock is erratic.
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Iglesia de la Candelaria
Built in 1641, Humahuaca’s Iglesia de la Candelaria faces Plaza Gómez.
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