Sights in Jujuy
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A
Museo Arqueológico Provincial
The Museo Arqueológico Provincial is definitely worth a visit. The standout exhibit is a vivid 3000-year-old fertility goddess figure, depicted with snakes for hair and in the act of giving birth. She’s a product of the advanced San Francisco culture, which existed in Las Yungas from about 1400 BC to 800 BC. There’s also a selection of skulls with cranial deformities (practiced for cosmetic reasons) and mummified bodies displayed with what might have been their typical possessions. Staff hand out a booklet that has information in English.
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B
Iglesia y Convento San Francisco
While the Franciscan order has been in Jujuy since 1599, Iglesia y Convento San Francisco dates only from 1912. Nevertheless, its Museo Histórico Franciscano, alongside on Belgrano, retains a strong selection of colonial art from the Cuzco school, which came about when monks taught indigenous Peruvians the style of the great Spanish and Flemish masters; this school gradually developed a high-quality style of its own that still exists today.
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C
Museo Histórico Provincial
During Argentina’s civil wars, a bullet pierced the imposing wooden door of this colonial house, killing General Juan Lavalle, a hero of the wars of independence. The story of Lavalle unfolds in Museo Histórico Provincial. There is also religious and colonial art, as well as exhibits on the independence era, the evacuation of Jujuy and 19th-century fashion. There are some English labels, and guides on hand to answer questions.
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D
Museo Histórico Franciscano
The Museo Histórico Franciscano, inside the Iglesia y Convento San Francisco, retains a strong selection of colonial art from the Cuzco school, which came about when monks taught indigenous Peruvians the style of the great Spanish and Flemish masters; this school gradually developed a high-quality style of its own that still exists today. The Franciscan order has been in Jujuy since 1599, but the church dates only from 1912.
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E
Museo Policial
On Plaza Belgrano, the attractively colonnaded cabildo (colonial town hall) houses the Museo Policial. Police museums in Argentina are funny things, with grisly crime photos, indiscriminate homage to authority and the odd quirky gem, in this case the discovery that in 1876 you could expect a five peso fine if you wanted carnal knowledge of a llama.
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F
Catedral
Jujuy’s 1763 catedral replaced a 17th-century predecessor destroyed by the Diaguita. The outstanding feature, salvaged from the original church, is the gold-laminated baroque pulpit, probably built by local artisans trained by a European master.
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G
Culturarte
An attractive modern space, the Culturarte showcases exhibitions by well-established Argentine contemporary artists. There’s also a cafe-bar with a great little balcony elevated over the street.
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H
Cabildo
On the north side of Plaza Belgrano is the Cabildo, an impressive building and colonnade.
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