Things to do in Humahuaca
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Hasta las Manos
The organization of mountain guides, Hasta las Manos, is recommended for exciting multiday treks with mules to the Calilegua or Baritú national parks, with a stunning change in terrain as you descend into the subtropical forest systems. They also offer sandboarding at Abra Pampa (AR$160 for the day) and high-mountain excursions.
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Monumento a la Independencia
From the plaza, a staircase climbs to the Monumento a la Independencia, a vulgarity produced by local sculptor Ernesto Soto Avendaño. The sculpture exemplifies indigenismo, a widespread tendency in Latin American art that romantically but patronizingly extols the virtues of native cultures overwhelmed by colonialism.
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El Portillo
Attractively decorated with cactus-wood furniture and booth tables, this popular restaurant has poor service and a simple menu, which mostly consists of llama in a variety of rather similar creamy sauces. There’s live music every night from 8pm.
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Casa Vieja
This warm and attractive corner restaurant is hung with basketry and large dreamcatchers. It serves simple llama dishes, and also a tasty bean and quinoa stew. Portions are generous. There’s live music nightly from 9pm.
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Aisito
Head across the railway tracks from the bus terminal and turn right at the river to reach this unsigned bar. Locals gather in the attractive interior to bash out local music until rather late. A real find.
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Cabildo
The lovably knobbly cabildo is famous for its clocktower, where a life-size figure of San Francisco Solano emerges at noon to deliver a benediction. Be sure to arrive early; the clock is erratic.
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Iglesia de la Candelaria
Built in 1641, Humahuaca’s Iglesia de la Candelaria faces Plaza Gómez.
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