Things to do in Cafayate
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Río Colorado
A 5km walk southwest of town leads you to the Río Colorado. Follow the river upstream for about 1½ hours to get to a 10m waterfall, where you can swim. Look out for hidden rock paintings on the way (for a small tip, local children will guide you). You could combine this walk with a visit to Bodega de las Nubes.
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Museo Arqueológico
The private Museo Arqueológico is the collection left by enthusiastic archaeologist Rodolfo Bravo and well worth a visit. Sourced mostly from grave sites in a 30km radius from Cafayate, the collection consists of an excellent array of ceramics, from the black and gray wares of the Candelaria and Aguada cultures to late Diaguita and Inca pottery, all well displayed across two rooms. While there’s not much explanation, the material speaks for itself.
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Bodega de las Nubes
Five kilometers west of Cafayate along the road to Río Colorado (it’s signposted ‘Mounier’), small, organic and friendly Bodega de las Nubes has a fabulous position at the foot of the jagged hills. The short tour and tasting nominally costs AR$15, but if you buy wine it’s not charged. It also does tasty picadas here. Ring ahead to check it is open and if you want to eat. Grape-picking day in March is lots of fun, with volunteers welcomed.
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El Rancho
A cut above the string of hit-and-miss places around the plaza, this has a short, simple menu, including locro and some good chicken dishes. It’s owned by a bodega, so competition wines are overpriced. It appeals on winter nights, with a crackling fire, and the nights when a blind guitarist plays unobtrusive folklórica.
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Baco
Crammed full of rustic decorations, and with work by local artists on the walls, this is one of the most popular spots in town and certainly offers plenty of character. It serves up variations on Argentine standards, including tasty pasta, and has plenty of local wines to try at OK prices.
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Museo de Vitivinicultura
The Museo de Vitivinicultura details the history of local wine production and displays a range of antiquated winemaking equipment. It’s pretty dry, but ambitious plans for new, interactive wings might just have transformed it by the time you visit.
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Heladería Miranda
A frequent dilemma in Argentina is whether to go for a rich red cabernet or a dry white torrontés, but it doesn’t usually occur in ice-cream parlors. It does here: the Miranda’s wine ice creams are Cafayate’s pride and joy.
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Casa de las Empanadas
No-frills and pretty tasty local dishes are the reason to come to this friendly spot off the plaza. There are empanadas beyond the usual chicken or meat range, as well as humitas, locro and tamales.
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El Terruño
Plaza-side seating and polite service are backed up by the food at this restaurant, which curiously has two menus, one of which is less traditional, with dishes like salmon and avocado salad, and boned lamb fillets.
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Bodega El Esteco
Diageo-owned Bodega El Esteco, on the northern edge of town, is a smart and attractive winery producing some of the region’s best wines and offering upmarket accommodations.
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Colorado
Microbrewed beers, Mexican dishes, spinach and blue cheese salad, and a Thai red curry are among the things that make this welcoming bar-restaurant a break from the norm in these parts.
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Bodega Nanni
The tour and tastings are short and bright at Bodega Nanni, a small, central winery with a lovely grass patio. Its wines are organic, uncomplicated and drinkable.
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Chato’s Wine Bar
Run by a cordial English-speaking boss, this unpretentious place is Cafayate’s only true wine bar and a great place to try fairly priced local drops by the glass and have a chat.
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Salvador Figueroa
Tiny Salvador Figueroa is a friendly family winery in town that produces only 5000 bottles of torrontés and malbec per year with small hand-operated equipment.
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Bodega Etchart
Bodega Etchart offers a cheerful free tour including tasting. It produces some six million bottles of quality torrontés, cabernet and malbec per year.
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El Porvenir
El Porvenir focuses on quality wine production. The tour is free, but tastings cost AR$30, AR$60 or AR$90 depending on which wines you want to try.
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La de Martín
Goat stew, local dishes and the odd llama special sit alongside reliable parrillada at this not-too-touristy place, with helpful waiters and fair prices.
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Mercado Artesanal
There are numerous artesanía shops on and around the central plaza. The Mercado Artesanal cooperative features many locals’ work.
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Puna
Runs the whole range of excursions and does so competently and honestly.
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Puna
Runs the whole range of excursions and does so competently and honestly.
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Macacha
The jury's still out on this new 'gourmet' restaurant, so it's up to you to decide. There are tables in a central courtyard and in intimate dining rooms off it. The menu is French-inspired, with some Andean dishes thrown in for the tourists. The starter assortment is generous and a good way to try a variety of dishes. Order wine by the bottle not the glass.
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