Tango entertainment in Argentina
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Boca Tango
What makes Boca Tango unique is the preshow theatrics. A minirepresentation of La Boca’s colorful conventillos (old tenements) has been set up outside the main theater, and performers act out the barrio’s history while interacting with guests. Dinner is set up at a nearby casual dining room in antique surroundings, while the main act takes place on an intimate stage. Unlike at some other shows, children are welcome here. Transport is included, which is fortunate since La Boca isn’t the safest neighborhood.
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Señor Tango
The most outrageous of them all, Señor Tango is the closest you’ll get to a Las Vegas show in Buenos Aires. With dozens of performers, live horses, two tiers of balconies and over 1500 seats, this granddaddy of tango shows is – for good or bad – an unforgettable experience. As long as you take it for what it is (that is, not authentic tango) you’ll be fine, and can join with Sting, Salma Hayek, Ivana Trump and Hillary and Bill Clinton in saying that you’ve spent an evening here.
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Esquina Osvaldo Pugliese
Also called Recuerdo Café, this casual venue has a small stage in more modest surroundings, with just a few performers doing the fancy footwork. Shows Friday and Saturday.
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Club Atlético Fernández Fierro
One of the most popular of the 'new' tango acts is the 12-musician cooperative Orquesta Típica Fernández Fierro, with their charismatic singer Walter Chino Laborde, a dedicated following at home and abroad, a documentary made about them by Argentine-born Brooklyn-based director Nicolas Entel and several fantastic albums with new arrangements of traditional tangos and some original songs. When they’re not on tour, you can catch them live at a weekly Wednesday milonga (tango dance hall) at Club Atlético Fernández Fierro in Abasto, as well as at other venues.
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Tango Rojo
This sexy performance is the tango show to top all others – especially with its hefty price tag. Offering only 120 seats, the Faena’s El Cabaret room is swathed in blood-red curtains and gilded furniture. The show itself loosely follows the history of tango, starting from its cabaret roots to the modern fusions of Ástor Piazzolla. The orchestra is first-rate, there are plenty of period costumes and even a brief (shock!) nudity scene. The drinks are exceptional, but the food can be surprisingly bland.
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La Ventana
The atmosphere at this long-running venue, located in an old converted building, will take you back in time. There are two salons, both with rustic brick walls and ceilings, and rough-hewn wood beams; one has an impressive stained-glass ceiling. A 20-minute folklore show includes a display of boleadores (balls on strings that gauchos used to tangle up prey). The tango show is also good, and there are 30 performers in total.
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Caminito Tango Show
For something much less glamorous and less expensive than many other tango shows in town, there’s this casual and modest restaurant in La Boca. It won’t weigh on your wallet at all; in fact, the performance is free when you sit down for the inexpensive Argentine lunch (the limited dishes run AR$10 to AR$25). Show times can vary widely, so call ahead to find out the current schedule and reserve a table.
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Esquina Carlos Gardel
One of the fanciest tango shows in town plays at this impressive 500-seat theater, an old cabaret right next to the lovely shopping mall Mercado de Abasto. The Abasto neighborhood was once Carlos Gardel’s old stomping ground, and he even hung out at this locale. The memorable show starts with a good film about the area, then goes on to highlight top-notch musicians and performers.
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Complejo Tango
For those who wish to not only watch tango but also experience it, there’s this classy venue in Balvanera. Should you choose to accept it, your first hour here is a free beginning tango lesson. Follow it up with a tasty dinner, then a fine tango show – beware, however, as the performers go around towards the end, picking out audience members to dance with them (usually badly).
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Café Homero
This cozy tango venue in Palermo Viejo offers intimate shows that feature tango singers rather than dancers. It has great local flavor and pretty much all the seats are good, whether they’re close to the stage or on the small balcony above. In December 2007, tango singing matriarch Adriana Varela crooned here. Food is available and admission usually includes a drink.
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El Viejo Almacén
This polished tango show, put on nightly in one of San Telmo’s old colonial homes, incorporates indigenous music and dance to the usual routine. It’s widely considered one of the best shows in the city – but avoid dining at the generic restaurant of the same name, located just across the street.
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Bar Sur
Historic Bar Sur is one of the city’s most celebrated, intimate (and expensive) tango show venues: you’ll pay handsomely to sip champagne at one of a dozen tables. Be prepared – the upscale dinner show is often participatory – so avoid it if you’re not prepared to try a few tangled steps.
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Salon Canning
Salon Canning attracts a young, local crowd of tangueros to a variety of milongas. The place gets especially busy on Monday and Tuesday nights when tango DJs hit the turntables for the dynamic Parakultural event. See the website for details: www.parakultural.com.ar.
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El Beso
This traditional tango salon brings in some 2000 tangueros (traditional tango dancers) every week for its dynamic milongas (social dances) and daily classes. Despite the increased presence of curious tourists, El Beso maintains a wonderfully authentic atmosphere.
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Niño Bien
Takes place on Thursday in Centro Región Leonesa and attracts a wide range of aficionados. It has a beautiful atmosphere, a large ballroom and a great dance floor, but it still gets very crowded (come early and dress well). It’s far from the center – it’s best to take a taxi.
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Sin Rumbo
One of the oldest, most traditional tango joints in BA, Sin Rumbo has given rise to a few famous tango dancers. It’s a local neighborhood place that attracts older professionals. Best on Friday. Far from the center in Villa Urquiza; take a taxi.
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La Viruta
This colorful midnight milonga, happening in the humble basement of the Armenian community center, sees dancers of all ages crowding the floor. La Viruta is friendly and atmospheric, a must-see for tango enthusiasts.
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La Catedral
If tango can be trendy and hip, this is where you’ll find it. The grungy warehouse space is very casual, with funky art on the walls and jeans on the dancers. A great place to come to learn tango, especially if you’re young.
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Piazzolla Tango
This beautiful art nouveau theater used to be a red-light cabaret venue. The show put on here now is a combination of old and new; it’s based on tradition, but some moves are so athletic they seem more like circus acts.
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La Marshall
Held in Plaza Bohemia on Wednesday and everyone’s welcome, but La Marshall is best known for being a gay milonga. Come at 10pm for a class, then at 11:30pm the milonga starts.
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Esquina Homero Manzi
An impressively refurbished old cafe, Homero Manzi was named after one of Argentina’s most famous tango lyricists. Today you can take tango lessons here, then sit back and watch the show.
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El Balcón
Located above Plaza Dorrego, this restaurant puts on free shows – but you have to order some food to see them. Shows run at 10pm Saturday and from 1pm to midnight on Sunday.
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Club Gricel
This old classic (far from the center, take a taxi) attracts an older, well-dressed crowd. Wonderful aging wood dance floor and occasional live orchestras.
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El Querandí
By day, El Querandí is an upscale restaurant serving salmon to businessmen – by night, the space is completely blackened for its famous tango dinner shows. These are stylish, slick, sexy and professional. And very popular – booking essential.
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