Sights in Buenos Aires
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Eco Yoga Park
And for something completely different – Eco Yoga Park, located about 1½ hours west of Buenos Aires, near Lújan.
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Cementerio de la Recoleta
Wander for hours in this amazing cemetery where ‘streets’ are lined with impressive statues and marble sarcophagi. Crypts hold the remains of the city’s elite: past presidents, military heroes, influential politicians and the rich and famous. Hunt down Evita’s grave, and bring your camera – there are some great photo ops here. Tours in English are available at 11am on Tuesday and Thursday (call to confirm). For a great map and information, order Robert Wright’s PDF map at www.recoletacemetery.com.
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Parque Lezama
Scruffy Parque Lezama was once thought to be the site of Buenos Aires’ founding in 1536, but archeological teams recently refuted the hypothesis. Today’s green park hosts old chess-playing gentlemen, bookworms toting mate (traditional Argentine tea) gourds and teenagers kissing on park benches. Don’t miss the striking Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa (Russian Orthodox Church) on the north side of the park.
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Casa Rosada
Standing before this rosy Renaissance-style palace, you can easily imagine Eva Perón pontificating from the lower balcony. This is the Casa Rosada (Pink House), home to Argentina’s presidential offices. Construction began in 1862 on the site of Buenos Aires’ fort, and the building was painted pink shortly after. Visitors marvel at the picturesque coral hue without realizing the gritty fact behind it – at the end of the 19th century, ox blood added color and texture to ordinary whitewash.
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Plaza de Mayo
Founded in 1580 as the city’s first central plaza, Plaza de Mayo is the symbolic and physical center of Argentina’s rocky history. The square’s name commemorates the May Revolution (1810) that began Argentina’s process of independence from Spain. Plaza de Mayo has seen it all – spirited crowds cheering as Evita shouted from the Casa Rosada’s balcony, military bombings in 1955, the march of the Madres as they protest the ‘disappearance’ of their sons.
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Jardín Japonés
The Jardín Japonés is a peaceful paradise with koi ponds, teahouse and cultural offerings.
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El Abasto
The bustling barrios of Abasto and Once, while a little dodgy at night, are part of the ‘real’ Buenos Aires that’s largely unaffected by the tourist trade. Walk west from Congreso along Av Corrientes, or take a quick taxi or Subte ride, to reach this cultural melting pot and commercial district crammed with colorful fabric shops and family-run Jewish and Peruvian eateries. The neighborhood’s centerpiece is the historic Mercado de Abasto, previously a massive fresh produce market and now a beautifully restored structure that houses the shopping mall called simply El Abasto. Nearby, on a gentrified street off Av Anchorena is the former home of tango legend Carlos…
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Galerías Pacífico
Covering an entire city block, this beautiful French-style shopping center dates from 1889 and boasts vaulted ceilings with paintings done in 1954 by muralists Antonio Berni, Juan Carlos Castagnino, Manuel Colmeiro, Lino Spilimbergo and Demetrio Urruchúa. All were adherents of the nuevo realismo (new realism) school of Argentine art. For many years the building was semiabandoned, but a joint Argentine-Mexican team repaired and restored the murals in 1992.
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Parque Temaikén
Outside Buenos Aires is the exceptional zoo, Parque Temaikén. Only the most charming animal species are on display (think meerkats, pygmy hippos and white tigers), roaming freely around natural enclosures. An excellent aquarium comes with touch pools, and plenty of interactive areas provide mental stimulation. Taxis from the center cost around AR$120 and take 40 minutes, or grab bus 60 marked ‘Escobar’ from Plaza Italia.
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Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
The beautifully marshy land of this nature preserve makes it a popular site for weekend outings, when hundreds of picnickers, cyclists and families come for fresh air and natural views. If you’re lucky you may spot a river turtle or a coypu; bird-watchers will adore the 200-plus bird species that pause to rest here. You can rent bikes just outside the park entrance on the weekends (daily in summer).
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Ciudad Cultural Konex
The bustling barrios of Abasto and Once, while a little dodgy at night, are part of the ‘real’ Buenos Aires that’s largely unaffected by the tourist trade. Walk west from Congreso along Av Corrientes, or take a quick taxi or Subte ride, to reach this cultural melting pot and commercial district crammed with colorful fabric shops and family-run Jewish and Peruvian eateries. The neighborhood’s centerpiece is the historic Mercado de Abasto, previously a massive fresh produce market and now a beautifully restored structure that houses the shopping mall called simply El Abasto. Nearby, on a gentrified street off Av Anchorena is the former home of tango legend Carlos…
reviewed
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Museo Casa de Ricardo Rojas
Walk under the facade, modeled after the Casa de Independencia in Tucumán, and behold a quaint courtyard surrounded by European and Incan architectural motifs. Famous Argentine educator and writer Ricardo Rojas lived here from 1929 to 1957, and in his office wrote his renowned El Santo de la Espada (1933). Note the glass case displaying his original books; the library contains 20,000 volumes. An old dining room with period furniture also gives an idea of the past. The small theater holds Friday concerts and the occasional workshop; the entry fee includes a short tour in Spanish.
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Pasaje de la Defensa
In the late 19th century a yellow-fever epidemic hit San Telmo and drove the rich into higher ground, west and north of the present-day Microcentro. As European immigrants began to pour into the city, many older mansions in San Telmo became conventillos (tenements) to house poor families. One such conventillo was the Pasaje de la Defensa. Originally built for the Ezeiza family in 1880, it later housed 32 families. These days, it’s a charmingly worn building with antique shops clustered around atmospheric leafy patios.
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Zavaleta Lab
Intrigued by Buenos Aires’ edgy art scene? Stop by one of the major galleries to behold creative works from photography to sculpture – or, better yet, show up at an exhibition opening to sip champagne and check out the art folk in action. On the north side of the city, Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo shows contemporary work by dozens of independent artists. Downtown, swing by a tried-and-true art institution, Ruth Benzacar, or continue south to San Telmo’s stylish new Zavaleta Lab.
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Ruth Benzacar
Intrigued by Buenos Aires’ edgy art scene? Stop by one of the major galleries to behold creative works from photography to sculpture – or, better yet, show up at an exhibition opening to sip champagne and check out the art folk in action. On the north side of the city, Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo shows contemporary work by dozens of independent artists. Downtown, swing by a tried-and-true art institution, Ruth Benzacar, or continue south to San Telmo’s stylish new Zavaleta Lab.
reviewed
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Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo
Intrigued by Buenos Aires’ edgy art scene? Stop by one of the major galleries to behold creative works from photography to sculpture – or, better yet, show up at an exhibition opening to sip champagne and check out the art folk in action. On the north side of the city, Braga Menendez Arte Contemporaneo shows contemporary work by dozens of independent artists. Downtown, swing by a tried-and-true art institution, Ruth Benzacar, or continue south to San Telmo’s stylish new Zavaleta Lab.
reviewed
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El Zanjón de Granados
One of the more unique places in Buenos Aires is this amazing architectural site. Below the remains of a mansion, a series of old tunnels, sewers and water wells going back to 1730 were discovered. They have been meticulously reconstructed brick by brick, and very attractively lit, and this ‘museum’ offers a fascinating glimpse into the city’s architectural past. Choose between hour-long tours during the week or half-hour tours on Sundays. It’s best to call and reserve, especially if you need English-speaking guides.
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Palacio Barolo
In 1919, Italian cotton tycoon Luis Barolo commissioned architect Mario Palanti to build a tribute to Dante’s Divine Comedy. The stunning neo-Gothic Palacio Barolo rises 100m and 22 floors – symbolizing the masterpiece’s 100 songs, composed of 22 verses each – and the floors of the ground level (‘Hell’) are inlaid with flame-like designs. The next 14 floors, now office space, represent ‘Purgatory, ’ while the uppermost floors and tower, offering spectacular views over the city, are ‘Paradise.’
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Hollywood in Cambodia
The city has a number of street art collectives, the most famous of which are Bs As Stencil, Burzaco Stencil and Fase. Some artists, such as Pum Pum (whose work can be seen on the walls of Mundo Bizarro) and Dani Dan (www.danidan.com.ar), have become celebrities on the underground street art circuit. To check out the captivating work by these and other local artists, head to Hollywood in Cambodia, a Palermo Viejo gallery that specializes in street art.
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Biblioteca Nacional
After two decades of construction problems and delays, the national library finally moved into this rather ugly, mushroom-shaped behemoth in 1992; the plaster and floor tiles, however, are already cracking. Prominent Argentine and Latin American literary figures, such as Ernesto Sábato, have lectured here. Other literary events, workshops, concerts and cultural activities also take place here. From up above, you can see panoramic views of the capital. Bring photo ID to enter.
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Palacio San Martín
Built in 1912 for the powerful Anchorena family, this impressive mansion is actually three independent buildings around a stone courtyard. It was designed by architect Alejandro Christophersen and sports marble staircases, grandiose dining rooms and a garden containing a chunk of the Berlin Wall. A small but good museum displays pre-Columbian artifacts from the northwest, along with some paintings by Latin American artists. Tours are available; call for more information.
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Centro Cultural Recoleta
Part of the original Franciscan convent and alongside its namesake church and cemetery, this renovated cultural center houses a variety of facilities, including art galleries, exhibition halls and a cinema. Plenty of events, courses and workshops are also offered, and its Museo Participativo de Ciencias is a children’s hands-on science museum. There are weekly free outdoor films in summer, almost daily movies in the Microcine, and a good art bookshop inside.
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Museo Fortabat
Rivaling Palermo’s MALBA museum for cutting-edge looks is this fancy art museum. It shows off the collection of multi-millionairess Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat, Argentina’s wealthiest woman. The museum’s airy salons exhibit works by famous Argentine and international artists – look for Warhol’s take on Fortabat herself. Movable aluminum panels above the roof open and close, keeping sun off the glassy ceiling. Call ahead for tours in English.
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Plaza Dorrego
This vibrant colonial square, one of the city’s oldest, is a hub of activity. Guitar-strumming artisans line the plaza with displays of silver jewelry and leather belts while cafe-dwellers kick back at plastic tables for conversation and tango performances. Pull up a chair, order a pitcher of sangria-like clericot de vino, and ward off the parade of magazine vendors with a polite but firm ‘ no gracias ’ (no, thank you).
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Museo Evita
Everybody who is anybody in Argentina has their own museum, and Eva Perón is no exception. You can see her immortalized in Museo Evita through videos, historical photos, books, old posters and newspaper headlines – even her fingerprints are recorded. The prize memorabilia, however, would have to be her wardrobe: dresses, shoes, handbags, hats and blouses stand proudly behind shining glass, forever pressed and pristine.
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