Restaurants in Buenos Aires
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A
Freddo
Many branches; check www.freddo.com.ar, in Spanish.
reviewed
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B
Brasserie Petanque
This bright brasserie is a lively spot for Sunday brunch or a leisurely evening meal. Charismatic waiters pour complimentary aperitifs as you ponder steak tartare or roast chicken and peruse the short but wise list of wines by the glass. The prix fixe lunch menu is a steal.
reviewed
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C
Estilo Campo
One of the many steakhouses in Puerto Madero, Estilo Campo is as good as any. One difference here is that all the waiters are dressed up in gaucho gear, making it easier to visualize yourself on the dusty pampas. It’s an elegantly rustic atmosphere, though, with typical parrilla (mixed grill) and Argentine fare like homemade pasta, seafood, exotic meats like venison and boar and – of course – plenty of beef cuts. The bandiola grillé (grilled pork loin) is especially luscious and tender, while the brochettes (shish kebabs) aren’t too shabby either.
reviewed
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D
El Hispano
Tired of the same old steak? Head to BA’s Little Spain neighborhood in Congreso, where this classy and atmospheric 50-year-old Spanish restaurant offers choices from octopus cazuela (stew) to frogs Provençal to snails a la Andaluza…or even just paella. Unsurprisingly, it’s really into seafood, including grilled trout, mussels, oysters and fried calamari. Don’t forget desserts like natilla (custard) and arroz con leche (rice pudding) to round off your special non-steak meal (though it’s got them on the menu as well).
reviewed
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E
El Bistro
Don’t despair if you’re not staying at the otherworldly Philippe Starck–designed Faena Hotel + Universe (complete with ‘personal experience managers, ’ a gentlemen’s club–style bar, a cabaret theater and a luxe pool bar). You can still spend a stack of pesos at El Bistro. Design geeks and foodies alike are entranced by this blindingly white space punctuated with blood-red accents and whimsical plaster unicorns. The flamboyant decor nearly distracts dinner guests from the exquisite degustación (tasting) menus prepared by award-winning chef Mariano Cid de la Paz.
reviewed
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F
Palitos
As the saying goes, ‘the worse the decor, the better the food’ – and it’s spot on at this Taiwanese restaurant in Belgrano’s Chinatown. Sift through the large menu and zoom in on the pollo a los tres aromas (garlic, ginger and basil chicken), the beef noodle soup, the fried noodles or any sweet-and-sour dish. All are as delicious as any you’d get in BA – just be prepared for Palitos’ famously lackadaisical service. Vegetarians can try nearby Siempre Verde (Arribeños 2127).
reviewed
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G
Verdellama
Some might find it hard to believe that steak-obsessed Buenos Aires has produced its first vegetarian, organic and raw food restaurant, but it was just a matter of time. Well-prepared ‘spaghetti’ (shredded zucchini), sliced vegetable salads and a beet soup with almond milk are sound and tasty choices, while the excellent licuados (fruit shakes) can be amended with spirulina or a wheatgrass shot. The desserts are surprisingly good as well. Except for chapatti bread, nothing served here has been cooked over 40°C.
reviewed
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H
Lotus Neo Thai
Buenos Aires’ little Chinatown is the barrio to be in when you feel like trading your steak knife for a pair of palitos (chopsticks). Style-conscious types opt to dine at contemporary eateries like Lotus Neo Thai, a Las Cañitas institution that recently made the move to Barrio Chino. Kick back with the heady, mint-infused house cocktail at this blissful Thai eatery where painted lotus flowers climb the walls and guests recline on floor cushions. The duck curry and pad thai, when requested, pack heat.
reviewed
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I
Anastasia
Reservations here are a good idea – this popular parrilla (restaurant specializing in mixed grill dishes) fills up early. The pastas caseras (homemade pastas) are mighty fine – try the raviolis – but most folks come here for the succulent grilled meats, roasted to perfection. Brick walls and a dim atmosphere exude richness and sophistication, while the grilled pork ribs and house lomo (tenderloin) are divine. Order mate (Argentina's tea) to help wash it all down.
reviewed
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J
Café Margot
Located in a non-touristy part of Buenos Aires is this classic café, which claims to have invented the turkey sandwich – at least in Argentina (in the 1940s). Mostly inexpensive meals like sandwiches, salads and pasta line the menu here, and it’s a popular place for them. The atmospheric main room is a bit snug and the back room is even smaller, so a sidewalk table is best for the claustrophobic. It’s a pretty and historic place that’s worth a stop if you’re in the neighborhood.
reviewed
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K
Bice
With branches all over the world, Bice is best known for its high-quality Italian cuisine. The homemade pastas (both fresh and dry) are exceptional: try the black fettuccini with shrimp or the spinach-and-ricotta ravioli with four-cheese sauce. There’s also a luscious risotto with artichoke and asparagus as well as several meat and fish choices. End it all with gelato, a crepe, mousse with pears or white chocolate semifreddo. Service is good; test it by asking for a table out back near the water.
reviewed
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Morelia
Choose from 26 kinds of excellent pizza here – the Napolitana (with tomatoes and garlic) is wonderfully simple, though the Montecattini (prosciutto and arugula) can’t be beat. Ask for it a la parrilla and it’ll arrive thin and crisp. For dessert, the frambuesas (raspberries) with ice cream are a piece of heaven and better than the chocolate mousse. There’s an enclosed patio in front that opens when the sun shines. Also at Humboldt 2005 in Palermo Hollywood.
reviewed
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L
Lotos
Right next door to La Esquina de las Flores is this equally renowned vegetarian spot. It’s cafeteria-style, so just point at whatever looks good. Choices include delicious, healthy soups, extensive salad ingredients and filling main dishes. In the basement is a good health food store (open 8:30am to 8pm Monday to Friday, to 4pm Saturday), where dry noodles, fresh-baked breads, organic tea, whole grains, herbal remedies and fresh tofu await your inspection.
reviewed
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M
Bella Italia
Located among Palermo Chico’s residential apartments is this tasty little Italian gem. Start with a cheese plate or olive ‘tasting’, then sink your teeth into the tagliolini with squid and scallops or the lemon ravioli with salmon. Treats like braised rabbit and grappa also line the menu. Bella Italia also has a café (República Árabe Siria 3330) just up the street on the next block, which serves similar fare and has cheaper prices.
reviewed
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N
Providencia
Casually funky, with blotchy walls and an unfinished look, Providencia is refreshingly grungy in that hippie-cool sorta way. What’s even better is the food – fresh, healthy, supremely tasty and wonderfully affordable. There aren’t many choices on the artsy menu, but what’s there really counts – try the huge veggie tortilla covered with rice, beets, potatoes and a goat-cheese salad. The homemade bread is awesome, as is the pitcher of (not too) sweet lemonade.
reviewed
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O
Territorio
Focusing on tablas and picadas (meat/cheese plates and appetizers) is this small and somewhat bohemian corner eatery. There are also sandwiches, the more interesting of which highlight more exotic meats like venison, trout, lamb and wild boar, served along with goat cheese and homemade bread. A few ‘regular’ dishes are also available, but it serves wine and not soft drinks – which it claims (and we believe) don’t pair up well with their offerings.
reviewed
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P
Guido’s Bar
Looking very much out of place amongst the tall, fancy apartment buildings of Palermo Chico, this traditional eatery adds a splash of history and color to the neighborhood. It’s an Italian joint, so expect mostly pasta, pizza and risotto on the menu – though there are also a few sandwiches, omelets and soups. If the plethora of funky posters on the walls gives you visual overload, try to snag a sidewalk table and take in the peaceful greenery of the zoo across the street.
reviewed
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Q
Rocket Bar & Bistro
A welcome addition to the generally stodgy restaurant scene in Congreso, Rocket was started by a British expat with a wide range of tastes. Things like tandoori chicken, Thai green curry, seafood pie and quiches are available for consumption. However, it’s the large range of deli-like sandwiches – roast beef, BLT and shrimp with avocado – that might do a better job attracting homesick palates. Creative salads and desserts are also on tap, and the atmosphere is humble.
reviewed
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R
Buddha Bar
The fanciest restaurant in Belgrano’s Chinatown is this pretty spot, which cooks up creative Chinese, Japanese, Thai and Vietnamese dishes. Order the shrimp in coconut milk, mixed-mushroom-and-veggie stir-fry or beef curry with tomatoes. The dining area is a slick, red lounge with moody music, and for extra quirkiness there’s an Asian art gallery (open 1pm to 7pm) upstairs and a bonsai ‘deck’ garden. Also open in the afternoon for tea service.
reviewed
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S
Katmandu
This long-running Indian restaurant remains popular for its wonderfully tasty food, which is fairly authentic for BA. Typical dishes like biryanis (Indian rice dish) and vegetable curries are available; for something special, try the tandoori gosht – delicious lamb marinated in milk and saffron. Brits will love the chicken tikka masala, while the garlic naan is lovely. If you want any heat, ask for it really spicy, and order a sweet lassi to take away any burn.
reviewed
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T
Las Cortaderas
Take a breather from the overcrowded heart of Las Cañitas’ restaurant scene and head a couple of blocks north to this modern, casual and family-friendly spot. The menu won’t pop your creative senses, but instead you’ll get large portions of good pasta and meat dishes – try the crepes de ricotta, vegetarian lasagna or Patagonian lamb. Lots of salads are available, and a whole range of pastries tempt you in front. It serves afternoon tea as well.
reviewed
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U
Mykonos
This Greek restaurant is a peaceful place…until they start breaking plates during their nightly dance shows. Beautiful murals transport you to the Mediterranean, as might the excellent tzatziki (cucumber and yogurt sauce) and spanakopita (spinach pastry). The lamb shish kebabs are also wonderful, but finish them off before you’re whisked away to the dance floor and go swinging out the front door. Not a place to come for serious conversation.
reviewed
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V
Afuego
Oddly located inside a Coto supermarket is this slightly fancy restaurant serving all-you-can-stuff meals. Complimentary French fries hit your table after you sit down, and the included salad and appetizer bar is pretty good as well. Best of all, however, is the Brazilian churrasquería-style highlight – servers come around with huge slabs of meat, slicing a portion off right at your table. Service can be iffy, but for the price this is a bargain.
reviewed
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Thymus
French-influenced Argentine chef Fernando Mayoral directs the kitchen at this beautiful and elegant restaurant located in an unlikely neighborhood. Only a handful of dishes grace the menu, but everything is well presented and top-notch. Try the excellent Taleggio-cheese crème brûlée for an appetizer, and follow it with the duck breast in honey reduction and roasted quail with truffle oil. One of BA’s best eateries, with good service. Reserve ahead.
reviewed
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X
Bi Won
Go for the bulgogi (grill the meat yourself at the table), bibimbap (rice bowl with meat, veggies, egg and hot sauce – mix it all up) or kim chee chigue (kimchi soup with pork - for adventurous, spice-loving tongues only!). Your Korean favorites are all here, including those little dishes of pickled salty morsels automatically brought to your table – delicious! And don’t forget to say kamsamnida (thank you) to your server at the end.
reviewed