Parrilla restaurants in Buenos Aires
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A
El Desnivel
Eating at dirt-cheap Desnivel is a rite of passage. The convivial parrilla atmosphere is buoyed by deadpan waiters, a mix of hungry locals and eager tourists, the skill and speed of the overworked guys on the grill, and – of course – the affordable beef, sizzling provoleta (grilled provolone) and fried empanadas.
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B
Cabaña Las Lilas
Porteños are evenly split as to whether this famous eatery is a fantastically overpriced display of hubris or an upmarket example of parrilla perfection. Tellingly, even those who deride this large waterside restaurant won’t hesitate to thumb through the jumbo wine list, especially if the meal’s on someone else’s dime. The fine beef was raised on the restaurant’s own estancia (ranch).
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C
Estilo Campo
One of the many steakhouses in Puerto Madero, Estilo Campo is as good as any. One difference here is that all the waiters are dressed up in gaucho gear, making it easier to visualize yourself on the dusty pampas. It’s an elegantly rustic atmosphere, though, with typical parrilla (mixed grill) and Argentine fare like homemade pasta, seafood, exotic meats like venison and boar and – of course – plenty of beef cuts. The bandiola grillé (grilled pork loin) is especially luscious and tender, while the brochettes (shish kebabs) aren’t too shabby either.
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D
La Lechuza
A world away from its trendy Palermo Viejo neighbors, this classic joint holds on to tradition and offers a breath of fresh air from overpriced, over-hip restaurants. A gamut of funky art adorns the walls, from amateur owl paintings (lechuza means ‘owl’) to photos of Carlos Gardel and cheap cabaret posters. Food is good, with solid parrilla – the seso (brain)-ball appetizers aren’t half bad – but be sure to order soda in siphon bottles for the full old-time experience. A mostly male hangout, but women are perfectly welcome, also.
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E
Anastasia
Reservations here are a good idea – this popular parrilla (restaurant specializing in mixed grill dishes) fills up early. The pastas caseras (homemade pastas) are mighty fine – try the raviolis – but most folks come here for the succulent grilled meats, roasted to perfection. Brick walls and a dim atmosphere exude richness and sophistication, while the grilled pork ribs and house lomo (tenderloin) are divine. Order mate (Argentina's tea) to help wash it all down.
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F
Afuego
Oddly located inside a Coto supermarket is this slightly fancy restaurant serving all-you-can-stuff meals. Complimentary French fries hit your table after you sit down, and the included salad and appetizer bar is pretty good as well. Best of all, however, is the Brazilian churrasquería-style highlight – servers come around with huge slabs of meat, slicing a portion off right at your table. Service can be iffy, but for the price this is a bargain.
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La Estancia
For the full-on tourist experience, you can’t do better than La Estancia. Stop by the picture window and snap a photo of yourself in front of the huge spits of roasting meat, then step into the large dining room, have a seat and enjoy the murals. This steakhouse has been serving up grilled goods for decades, but there are also substantial salads for the meek. Though it might seem like a tourist trap, the meat is good and it’s fun enough to be worth it.
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H
Rodizio
Pure heaven for meat lovers is this Brazilian-style churrasquería (all-you-can-eat restaurant). You don’t even have to queue up – just sit pretty at your table and knife-wielding waiters come by to slice chunks of meat off long spits, right onto your plate. The cuts vary, so be choosy and pace yourself. An extensive appetizer-salad buffet, along with one dessert and a coffee, are included in the price.
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El Obrero
Ironically, the exterior of BA’s most famous bodegón (workers’ cafe; obrero translates as workers or working-class) is often illuminated by the flash of paparazzi bulbs as local celebrities pull up for high-profile dinners of roasted ribs and milanesa (fried steak). If your limo doesn’t arrive after dinner, don’t be tempted to walk – take a taxi, La Boca’s a tough ‘hood.
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J
La Dorita
Back-to-basics La Dorita grills up well-priced steaks served in a casual atmosphere – televised fútbol games indoors, sidewalk tables outdoors. The parrilla (grill restaurant) is so popular with locals that it’s grown a bigger sibling, La Dorita Enfrente, on the same intersection. Order the house wine and a mini parrillada (mixed grill) of three different cuts of beef.
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K
Parrilla 1880
A good, solid parrilla away from the more touristy sections of San Telmo. The atmosphere is thick with history and locals come here to enjoy juicy cuts of meat from the open grill in front. The half portion of bife de chorizo is plenty big for one person. Lots of other dishes such as pastas, omelettes and salads are also available.
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L
La Vieja Rotisería
Order the house wine served in a pingüino (penguin-shaped pitcher) and bump elbows with your fellow diners as you gobble steak and chorizo – it’s all part of the experience at this no-frills parrilla. Thanks to bargain prices and a location near the entrance of the Mercado de San Telmo, the place often fills to capacity.
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M
Parrilla al Carbón
Cheap parrilla doesn’t come easier than this. Go for a quick choripan (sausage sandwich; AR$6) at the counter in front of the grill. For more comfort and a better view of the TV, snag one of the few crowded tables and order a half-portion of the vacío (a chewy but tasty flank cut).
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N
El 22 Parrilla
A cheap unpretentious parrilla isn’t that easy to find in upscale Palermo Viejo. This casual family-style joint is an exception, serving up huge portions for great prices. The lunch specials are an even better deal, especially if you score a sidewalk table. Several branches around Palermo.
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O
Al Carbón
This attractive, modern and upscale parrilla restaurant is on a pedestrianized street downtown. Plenty of good beef is slapped on the grill, and there are also lamb, pork and fish dishes available – mostly well presented. Homemade pastas and plenty of dessert options round out the menu.
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P
El Establo
While it gets its fair share of tourists, trusty old El Establo is unlikely to have a tango show or wi-fi anytime soon. Try the Spanish tapas paired with the house red, then turn your attention to the true star of the show, the skillful parrillero (grill man).
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Q
Miranda
Fashionable Miranda is the parrilla of choice for the breed of porteños who crave the classic grilled steaks and chorizos they grew up with, but who won’t sacrifice style for red meat any day of the week.
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R
La Brigada
This classic San Telmo parrilla will almost certainly lose some of its neighborhood-style charm when it expands to include a much larger space next door. Still, the beef is brilliant – some dishes arrive so tender they’re carved tableside with a spoon. Try the deep-fried vegetables and the deliciously antisocial papas fritas provenzal (garlic fries).
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