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El Cuartito
Serving up pizzas and empanadas since 1934, this legendary spot sees local men standing at the counter downing a slice or a fresh empanada, while out the back couples and families sit down for a slice of history, while faded images of boxers and footballers look on.
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El Desnivel
El Desnivel is packed with tourists, but is equally popular with locals. Join in by nudging up to the front-door grill for a choripan (sausage sandwich) or by ordering superb grilled meats from the tables. Popularity has driven prices up, but it's still worth a visit. The vaćio (flank steak) is nice and tender - ask for it bien jugoso (rare) if you dare.
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El Establo
While it gets its fair share of tourists, El Establo is unlikely to have a tango show anytime soon. While there are some Spanish dishes (fantastic hams and tortillas) the star of the show is the parrillero (grill man) who manages to keep pace even when the place is packed. Being open for breakfast earns this place kudos as well.
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El Obrero
If you're after a restaurant with ambience and history, pop your head into El Obrero. This family-run business has been operating for 70 years. On display are unfinished bottles of wine and plenty of photos of famous diners including Bono, Robert Duvall and various Argentine celebrities. The food isn't spectacular, but the atmosphere makes it taste so much better.
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El Portugués
While you might assume you've rocked up to the wrong address in this 'hood now filled with designer sushi joints and upmarket parrillas, relax; El Portugués is the real old-school deal, right down to the over-lit ambiance and plastic chairs. Expect and receive massive portions of succulent grilled meats - fantastic and filling.
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El Sanjuanino
This tiny timeless classic is known for its traditional Argentine fare such as empanadas (especially the meat ones) and locro . So settle into a red leather booth, check out the detail of the decor and order up!
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Empire Thai
A Thai restaurant in the middle of Retiro that references New York for inspiration is a bit of a stretch, but it makes for a refreshing change in an area that's all parrilla (grill restaurant) all the time. While the spicy Thai cuisine isn't quite authentic enough to please aficionados (although the satay is delicious), it's an agreeable and gay-friendly place that's worth a look.
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Esplendor Restaurant & Bar
The restaurant of the stylish Hotel Esplendor is equally as breathtaking as the hotel itself. A gorgeous light white space is the setting for chef Agustín Longo's fantastic fare (try the Patagonian lamb) and the lunchtime set menu (Mon-Fri) is a steal.
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Filo
Whether it's the 45-minutes-and-gone business crowd during the day or visiting celebrities by night, Filo's freshly topped thin-crust pizzas are the main attraction at this authentic Italian eatery. If you have time after reading the ridiculously long menu, check out the downstairs art gallery.
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Gran Bar Danzon
A fine restaurant and bar that has one of the best vibes in town, Gran Bar Danzon is the kind of place where you drop in intending to just try some wines with friends and leave about four hours later after sampling numerous vintages and several courses from their eclectic food menu. Arrive early (before ) and eat alone, arrive late and expect to wait.
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Green Bamboo
Retro-Asian and kitschy cool Green Bamboo is the perfect spot for those with a craving for Asian cuisine that doesn't involve the 's' word (sushi). The menu is authentic Vietnamese right down to the pho (rice-noodle soup) and the funky vibe will see you wanting to kick on with one of their impressive cocktails. Book ahead.
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I Fresh Market
The best way to describe this all-day cafe-restaurant-deli is that it's a quick trip to New York - but much less expensive. The menu is simply divided into breakfast/lunch/dinner and there's a relaxed vibe. It's the kind of place you can feel good about dropping into at any time of day or night, chill out, snack, and take something delicious home from the deli. Perfect.
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Irifune
Widely considered to be the best traditional Japanese in town, Irifune's old-school Japanese restaurant exterior (think paper lanterns) gives way to a more minimal ambiance once inside. With the menu, think minimalist as well; we stick to the sushi and sashimi, but always keep in mind that the 'ginger snow cheese' dessert awaits.
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La Brigada
At this classic San Telmo parrilla , owner Hugo watches over his busy restaurant with a keen eye and a great sense of pride. The amazing football memorabilia is only usurped by the brilliant beef - some dishes arrive so tender they're carved tableside with a spoon . While it's 'just' a parrilla, it's one of the only San Telmo eateries we'd make a booking for. Try the delightfully antisocial but delicious garlic fries.
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La Cabrera
If you eat at only one steakhouse in BA, make it this one. Some of the city's best meats are grilled up and presented to you on wooden boards, and in huge portions, along with a few dainty condiments (olives, sun-dried tomatoes, goat's cheese) on the side. The ambience is elegant, and considerably less stuffy than most Palermo Viejo eateries.
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La Cava de El Querandí
This contemporary, warm wine bar and restaurant reflects the change in attitude to Argentinean wines, which have gone from quaffers to amazing quality in a short period of time. Choose a brilliant red and settle in with some cheese and cold meats for starters followed by a steak. Their big restaurant next door is packed with locals for lunch and tourists at night for the slick tango show.
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La Dorita
La Dorita grills up some of the best meat in town, and the excellent prices and casual atmosphere make it one of Palermo's favorites. It's so popular in fact, that it has grown a bigger sibling, La Dorita Enfrente, on the same intersection. Either is fine - it's all really about the meat.
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La Puerto Rico
It may be second to Café Tortoni in BA's cafe hierarchy, but the freshly ground coffee and homemade chocolate at this atmospheric cafe (opened in 1887) makes it second to none in our opinion. We love the black granite facade, big picture windows, wonderful woodwork, and long zinc bar inside.
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La Vieja Rotiseria
A modest eatery at the entrance to the Mercado de San Telmo, it's the promising aroma of the asado (barbeque) that gets locals and visitors through the door - especially on Sundays. For the true local experience, sip the house wine and try some offal.
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Le Sud
Trust the Sofitel to have a restaurant that keeps visiting Francophiles happy while in BA! Award-winning chef Thierry Pszonda's exquisitely prepared and plated French-Mediterranean cuisine (via Provence) is what you'd expect of a Parisian two-star as are the elegant surrounds.
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Lezama
This parkside bodegón (tavern) has been a neighborhood favorite for over 75 years. The food is honest, and while the parrilla is tasty, it's a good place to try some different dishes such as their pastas, pork and seafood.
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Lola
Sophisticated and elegant, revamped Lola is as fresh as the flowers that adorn its tables. A BA institution, it attracts a cross section of BA's movers and shakers. Its French-focused menu unapologetically offers up classics such as duck magret, salmon with champagne sauce and tenderloin with mushroom sauce, but also treats salads and vegetables with the same respect - rare in this town.
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Manolo
There's no better way of explaining the local loyalty to this modest bodegón than stating that when the restaurant moved locations a while back, the crowds just simply moved with it. Why? Because it's the epitome of cheap and honest fare in San Telmo - the plate of the day costs less than people tip for a meal in Palermo.
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Mark's Deli
Serving up some of the best coffee around, along with cookies, cakes and sandwiches, this modern New York-style cafe is a great place for that post-mortem on the shopping purchases or to regroup, check the guidebook, and plan out the next part of the day.
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Miranda
It's hard to miss the giant 'Miranda' sign outside the tall doors of this classic parrilla and it's also hard to miss just how busy and buzzy the place gets at night. It's good value for this area, with generous portions of good quality meats and while the service can get bogged down, it's always friendly.
