Restaurants in Buenos Aires
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El Desnivel
Eating at dirt-cheap Desnivel is a rite of passage. The convivial parrilla atmosphere is buoyed by deadpan waiters, a mix of hungry locals and eager tourists, the skill and speed of the overworked guys on the grill, and – of course – the affordable beef, sizzling provoleta (grilled provolone) and fried empanadas.
reviewed
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Campo Bravo
While this chic parrilla (grill restaurant) is a relaxing place to tackle a huge steak or a pasta during the day, at night it's a very different beast indeed. While the staff remain cool, on a busy night you can wait up to an hour for a table - it's the price you pay for hanging with the most stylish crowd in Las Cañitas.
reviewed
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Cabaña Las Lilas
Porteños are evenly split as to whether this famous eatery is a fantastically overpriced display of hubris or an upmarket example of parrilla perfection. Tellingly, even those who deride this large waterside restaurant won’t hesitate to thumb through the jumbo wine list, especially if the meal’s on someone else’s dime. The fine beef was raised on the restaurant’s own estancia (ranch).
reviewed
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D
Cumaná
This bright, upbeat eatery is one of the only places in town serving traditional dishes from far-flung provinces of Argentina. The hearty criollo (Spanish/Indian) cuisine baking in the adobe oven includes locro, a thick corn-based stew made with meat and vegetables. Don’t miss the humita, a creamy cheese and corn mixture wrapped up in corncob leaves.
reviewed
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E
Gran Bar Danzon
Gran Bar Danzon is the kind of place you drop by with the intention of trying a glass of wine or two with friends – but thanks to the cool urban atmosphere, you’re still there four hours later, sampling sushi and confit of duck and pretending not to stare at the parade of pretty people squeezing past your table.
reviewed
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Brasserie Petanque
This bright brasserie is a lively spot for Sunday brunch or a leisurely evening meal. Charismatic waiters pour complimentary aperitifs as you ponder steak tartare or roast chicken and peruse the short but wise list of wines by the glass. The prix fixe lunch menu is a steal.
reviewed
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Bio
So your better half’s a devoted carnivore but you’re dying for green cuisine? Don’t drag them kicking and screaming to an extreme organic eatery, just take them to Bio for fantastically fresh pastas and salads. The homemade ginger lemonade is heavenly.
reviewed
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El Cuartito
Since 1934, this legendary pizzeria has seen local men polishing off slices at the counter and families sharing fresh empanadas (savory-filled pastries) at tables, surrounded by faded images of sportsmen.
reviewed
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La Cabrera
If you eat at only one steakhouse in BA, make it this one. Some of the city's best meats are grilled up and presented to you on wooden boards, and in huge portions, along with a few dainty condiments (olives, sun-dried tomatoes, goat's cheese) on the side. The ambience is elegant, and considerably less stuffy than most Palermo Viejo eateries.
reviewed
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Mott
One of Palermo Viejo’s slickest new joints, Mott revels in its huge airy spaces and contemporary lines. It’s attention-grabbing open facade makes it a very popular spot to see and be seen, especially at the gorgeous bar. Chef Maria Lancio whips up exotic selections like rabbit with roasted egg, salmon in pumpkin cream and spinach-mousse sorrentinos – which might sound better than they really are – but with the people and atmosphere around you so beautiful, who cares about your taste buds?
reviewed
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Osaka
Sick of the same old cheap steaks? Then Osaka is your remedy, slicing up some of BA’s most exquisite cold, raw fish – and so much more. Catapulting Peruvian and Japanese cuisines together into a whole new level of creativity, Osaka ponies up sublime fusions that look like works of art and taste out of this world. You’ll have to experience it to believe it, so reserve a week in advance, load up the bank account and clear out those parrilla-worn taste buds.
reviewed
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L
Arte Sano
This small, bright and pleasant health-food eatery cooks up excellent dishes, such as a zucchini, eggplant and tomato tart, soy burgers and veggie stir-fry. Desserts are good for the body, like the yogurt with granola or fruit salad. The tiny bakery attached sells things like brown rice, powdered ginger and whole-wheat breads. Also on offer are yoga, tai chi and dance classes, along with natural food workshops (for more info, see www.artesano-naturista.com.ar).
reviewed
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Museo del Jamón
There's something comforting and inviting about old-school Spanish eateries such as Museo del Jamón. Perhaps it's the hanging hams that you know are soon destined to be carved for a delicious plate of crudo (raw proscuitto), or it's the thought that as you wait a delicious paella is being prepared for you while you graze some tapas. Perfect for a rainy BA day.
reviewed
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Siga la Vaca
Only the truly hungry should set foot in this excellent all-you-can-stuff parrilla. Work your way from the appetizer salad bar to the grill, where the meat hangs out. Eat slowly and pace yourself, and you’ll only need to eat once that day. One drink and a dessert are included in the price, which varies depending on the meal and day.
reviewed
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O
Manolo
Honest local cuisine – steaks, salads and a huge menu of Spanish pastas and meat-and-potatoes platters – keep this friendly, family-run corner joint alive and kicking. The budget-friendly prices pull in neighborhood families and groups of hungry boys after fútbol practice.
reviewed
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Origen
Flying one of the only organic flags in this part of town, Origen is a bright, relaxed eatery with a short daily menu of fresh dishes like pumpkin ravioli and vegetable stir-fry with ginger. On a sunny day, you’ll have to tussle with the locals for an outdoor table.
reviewed
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Q
Rave
If you need some energy to get you through the night, Rave is a gay-friendly restaurant.
reviewed
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Estilo Campo
One of the many steakhouses in Puerto Madero, Estilo Campo is as good as any. One difference here is that all the waiters are dressed up in gaucho gear, making it easier to visualize yourself on the dusty pampas. It’s an elegantly rustic atmosphere, though, with typical parrilla (mixed grill) and Argentine fare like homemade pasta, seafood, exotic meats like venison and boar and – of course – plenty of beef cuts. The bandiola grillé (grilled pork loin) is especially luscious and tender, while the brochettes (shish kebabs) aren’t too shabby either.
reviewed
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La Lechuza
A world away from its trendy Palermo Viejo neighbors, this classic joint holds on to tradition and offers a breath of fresh air from overpriced, over-hip restaurants. A gamut of funky art adorns the walls, from amateur owl paintings (lechuza means ‘owl’) to photos of Carlos Gardel and cheap cabaret posters. Food is good, with solid parrilla – the seso (brain)-ball appetizers aren’t half bad – but be sure to order soda in siphon bottles for the full old-time experience. A mostly male hangout, but women are perfectly welcome, also.
reviewed
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El Hispano
Tired of the same old steak? Head to BA’s Little Spain neighborhood in Congreso, where this classy and atmospheric 50-year-old Spanish restaurant offers choices from octopus cazuela (stew) to frogs Provençal to snails a la Andaluza…or even just paella. Unsurprisingly, it’s really into seafood, including grilled trout, mussels, oysters and fried calamari. Don’t forget desserts like natilla (custard) and arroz con leche (rice pudding) to round off your special non-steak meal (though it’s got them on the menu as well).
reviewed
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El Bistro
Don’t despair if you’re not staying at the otherworldly Philippe Starck–designed Faena Hotel + Universe (complete with ‘personal experience managers, ’ a gentlemen’s club–style bar, a cabaret theater and a luxe pool bar). You can still spend a stack of pesos at El Bistro. Design geeks and foodies alike are entranced by this blindingly white space punctuated with blood-red accents and whimsical plaster unicorns. The flamboyant decor nearly distracts dinner guests from the exquisite degustación (tasting) menus prepared by award-winning chef Mariano Cid de la Paz.
reviewed
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Palitos
As the saying goes, ‘the worse the decor, the better the food’ – and it’s spot on at this Taiwanese restaurant in Belgrano’s Chinatown. Sift through the large menu and zoom in on the pollo a los tres aromas (garlic, ginger and basil chicken), the beef noodle soup, the fried noodles or any sweet-and-sour dish. All are as delicious as any you’d get in BA – just be prepared for Palitos’ famously lackadaisical service. Vegetarians can try nearby Siempre Verde (Arribeños 2127).
reviewed
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La Esquina de Las Flores
One of BA’s most enduring vegetarian alternatives, this modern restaurant also has a small health food store on the ground floor that sells soy flour, whole-wheat breads and organic mate (tea), among other things. There’s a small fast-food section, but if you prefer more relaxed surroundings, go upstairs and choose from the tasty and nutritious menu. There’s even a dish for macrobiotics. There’s another branch at Gurruchaga 1630 in Palermo, where free workshops on healthy cooking are occasionally available.
reviewed
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Verdellama
Some might find it hard to believe that steak-obsessed Buenos Aires has produced its first vegetarian, organic and raw food restaurant, but it was just a matter of time. Well-prepared ‘spaghetti’ (shredded zucchini), sliced vegetable salads and a beet soup with almond milk are sound and tasty choices, while the excellent licuados (fruit shakes) can be amended with spirulina or a wheatgrass shot. The desserts are surprisingly good as well. Except for chapatti bread, nothing served here has been cooked over 40°C.
reviewed
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Lotus Neo Thai
Buenos Aires’ little Chinatown is the barrio to be in when you feel like trading your steak knife for a pair of palitos (chopsticks). Style-conscious types opt to dine at contemporary eateries like Lotus Neo Thai, a Las Cañitas institution that recently made the move to Barrio Chino. Kick back with the heady, mint-infused house cocktail at this blissful Thai eatery where painted lotus flowers climb the walls and guests recline on floor cushions. The duck curry and pad thai, when requested, pack heat.
reviewed
