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Gibraltar
A convivial mix of Argentines, expats and travelers pack this pub most nights for the pints, pool table, English-style curries and good pub grub. If you're looking for a break from tango shows and steakhouses, this is the ticket.
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Glam
One of BA's hottest gay clubs is spread over three floors in a maze of an old mansion. While most rooms see lots of sweaty dancing, the playroom upstairs sees sweaty action of a hotter kind. Saturdays and Sundays are the biggest nights.
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Kandi
This retrotastic cocktail bar, with its fab orange sign, caramel leather seating, round mirrors, and wooden floors, is very cool. It would be enough to just go and ogle the gorgeous space over cocktails. Kandi gets crammed with local hipsters around midnight, so head here a bit before to get a table and avoid the cover charge.
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La Cigale
The fairy lights above the big bar give this popular place a festive atmosphere, while the booths, bar lamps, and French House music, give it a real Parisian flavor. That could also have something to do with the regulars, French expats and Argentines wishing they were in Paris.
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La Coruña
One of several no-nonsense cantinas (traditional bars) on the edge of the Mercado de San Telmo, this one has the most character. While you'll see a few old barflies downing beers here in the morning, late nights see local uni students packing the pavement tables. The classic daily specials on the blackboard are good for soaking up the alcohol.
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La Finca
Pull up a chair at a small wooden table at this modest wine bar focusing on hard-to-get Argentine wines from boutique wineries - the focus is very much on the wine, available by glass or bottle, along with samplings of the week's special. They also do delicious picadas (cheese and meat plates) that perfectly match a great Argentine red.
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La Peña del Colorado
This lively venue - which many porteños swear is the best peña (community venue where folk music is performed in a casual environment) in the city - packs in the punters for the live folkórica shows on Friday and Saturday night, and more spontaneous singing and strumming on other nights. There are decent northern Argentine dishes and if you haven't tried mate yet, here's your chance.
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La Trastienda
This serious live music venue hosts some of Latin America's best bands and the occasional international act, everything from indie pop and rock to jazz and blues, and everyone from Café Tacuba to Kevin Johansen and the Nada. The stage is low and the space is fairly intimate, holding up to 1000 standing plus another 350 in seats upstairs.
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Lelé de Troya
One of the most laidback bars around, with eclectic furnishings and brightly-painted walls, and a summer terrace with views of the neighborhood that's ideal for kicking back with a glass of white on a warm day.
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Luna Park
Luna Park is one of BA's most historic performance venues (and not just because Juan and Eva Perón met here) and seeing a show at this neon-signed classic is an experience. Formerly a sports venue, it now hosts everything from Jethro Tull to the Harlem Globetrotters.
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Malas Artes
Long a favorite on the Palermo Viejo scene, this cool boho bar on a corner opposite Plaza Serrano (aka Plaza Cortázar) has loads of atmosphere with its high ceilings, big picture windows, bare brick walls and big art. If it looks crowded downstairs head up to the mezzanine level. While the drinks are already cheap, there's a popular happy 'hour' from - .
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Maluco Beleza
Located in an old mansion, this Brazilian magnet draws in long lines of hip-wigglers. Latin beats and lithe stage dancers stir up excitement, and you can always head upstairs for more intimate spaces. Especially good on Sundays.
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Milión
Never partied in a mansion? Here's your chance. With superb art, a living-room DJ and three floors of converted rooms, Milión is a nighttime Never Never Land. Feast on nouvelle Argentine cuisine in the dining room, chill out on the terrace, explore the 'bedrooms' or follow the giant marble staircase to the gardens out back.
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Mundo Bizarro
With its vibrant red walls and retro 1950s American diner vibe, Mundo Bizarro has been a Palermo institution for some ten years, even managing to pull off a move to a new location, and taking its music and film industry clientele with it. A great late night drinking spot, the DJs are good, the music is fun, and the cocktails are great.
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Museum
Set in a splendid grey-steel building designed by Gustave Eiffel, you'd be forgiven for thinking this club was a museum. The interior is just as stunning and the sound and lighting is very slick. Midweek sees the suited after-work crowd loosening their ties, while weekends see a more relaxed but well-dressed set hitting the dance floor for good house music and well-known DJs.
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Nd/Ateneo
This gorgeous old theater hosts the Buenos Aires International Jazz Festival, tango legends, folk musicians and occasional film screenings. The atmosphere is hard to beat.
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Niceto Club
One of BA's hottest clubs, the Niceto offers up something for everyone from Wednesday through Saturday. There's Thursday night's outrageous gay 'Club 69' night, with debauched drag shows; international A-list DJs of every musical persuasion, and live music from reggae to The Buzzcocks!
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Notorious
It's hard to go wrong at Notorious. One of BA's premier jazz venues, it boasts intimacy, a multigenerational crowd and superb nightly performances. There's not a bad seat in the house, but reserve a table to get up close. Dinner, drinks and desserts are optional at an additional, reasonable charge.
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Pride Café
This groovy cafe-bar serves up some of the best 'queer coffee' to a mostly gay crowd, along with great sandwiches and snack foods. The vibe is very laidback, although it gets packed on weekends, when it can be hard to get a table.
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Salon Canning
A traditional dance hall ambiance makes this a memorable spot for learning the tango, and joining the milongas (social dances) that follow. But what really sets Salon Canning apart from other milongas is its young local crowd of tangueros who come for Omar Viola's tango events, featuring tango DJs, live music, singers and dancers.
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Sitges
This big brick-walled space with its funky chandeliers and blue-glowing bar has a great vibe, especially on a weekend when it's packed with gay and lesbian clubbers who come here before moving on to Glam. On Wednesday there's an amusing drag show.
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Soul Café & Supersoul
These 1970s-style sister-bars next door to each other are both so groovy it's very hard to choose between them. We like Soul Café for its kitsch hanging dice lamps, stylish white seats, and the good sushi. But we love Supersoul for its curvy red walls, red wooden booths, hanging disc 'curtains,' and long mirror that's perfect for people-watching. Why choose? Just allow enough time to enjoy the pleasure of both.
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Teatro Astral
From highly produced tango productions such as Diego Romay's Tanguera to over-the-top musicals, Teatro Astral is a great place for non-Spanish speakers to catch a show that's high on spectacle and low on language. They also present children's shows.
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Teatro Gran Rex
This elegant theater with comfy seats is ideal for music performances you want to watch sitting down, and sees everyone performing here from Marisa Monte to Caetano Veloso. We like the mezzanine level ( super pullman ) although the stalls ( platea ) are also good. Avoid the cheap sets in the dress circle ( pullman ) as the sound is awful.
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Teatro Nacional Cervantes
This architectural gem overlooking Plaza Lavalle is a fabulous place to catch musicals, dance and, depending on how good your Spanish is, theater. It also does shows for children. The splendid halls, splendid lobby and red-velvet chairs make it quite a treat. Check the website for the program.
