Café entertainment in Buenos Aires
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A
Café Tortoni
While tourists tend to outnumber locals at this landmark cafe (the oldest in the country), it still has a special place in the hearts of older porteños nostalgic for the good old days. Tango shows are held in a separate salon most nights at 9:30pm and 11pm.
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B
London City
This swank and classy cafe has been serving java addicts for over 50 years, and claims to have been the spot where Julio Cortázar wrote his first novel. Your hardest work here, however, will most likely be choosing which luscious pastry to consume with your freshly brewed coffee.
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C
Florida Garden
Usually full of businesspeople drinking up a storm of coffee, this two-story café – sporting modern touches such as glass walls and copper-covered columns – was historically popular with politicians, artists and writers. In fact, Jorge Luis Borges and Pérez Célis (a famous Argentine painter) used to hang out here before the era of skinny lattes. The people-watching is excellent, both inside the café and out.
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D
La Biela
There’s no need to squabble over a few outdoor tables: La Biela’s huge patio, shaded by the leafy branches of a formidable gomero (rubber) tree, has enough sidewalk seating for the entire national fútbol team (and their dear mothers, too). Take a break from sightseeing with coffee at this refined corner institution just off Plaza Francia.
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E
Petit Paris Café
Well located, this small but elegant café is a great stop for your daily java jolt. Large picture windows provide views of Plaza San Martín, while the busy street traffic offers a good sense of this bustling city. It’s a popular place with both businesspeople and little old ladies and yes, it does have a slightly Parisian feel.
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F
Nucha
There must be something in the tempting pastry counter – perhaps cheesecake, medialunas (croissants) or lightly layered afternoon cake – to go with your imported tea, iced coffee or mate (tea-like beverage) at this cute cafe. Crowds flood in for afternoon tea and tasty lunch sandwiches, but breakfast is also served.
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G
Las Violetas
Las Violetas is an antique cafe with gorgeous stained-glass windows, polished wood and a bakery turning out Parisian-style bonbons and pastries. The spectacular corner space opened in 1884. Ask for the sampler of exquisite little cakes and sandwiches, served with coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice.
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H
Café Literario Osvaldo Bayer
The Madres de la Plaza de Mayo run this small cafe and eatery, in conjunction with their bookstore at their headquarters – a hub of liberal politics where students scan the papers to see if any children of the desaparecidos (disappeared ones) have been located. The cafe is modest, but the atmosphere is unique.
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I
Café de los Angelitos
Originally called Bar Rivadavia, this spot was once the haunt of poets, musicians…even criminals. Recently restored to its former glory, this historic cafe is now an elegant hangout, modernized by offering tango shows to tourists. Come during the day, order a cup of tea and enjoy a slice of the shady past.
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J
El Gato Negro
Tea-lined wooden cabinets and a spicy aroma welcome you to this pleasant little sipping paradise. Enjoy cups of imported coffee or tea along with breakfast and dainty sandwiches de miga (thinly sliced white-bread sandwiches). Tea is sold by weight, and exotic herbs and spices are also on offer.
reviewed
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K
Café Retiro
Catching a train out of town? Allow an extra half-hour for coffee at this grand cafe in the main hall – the soaring ceilings, polished wood and bronze interior and bustling train station will make you feel like the star of a silent movie.
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L
La Puerto Rico
Cafe-hoppers with a sweet tooth shouldn’t miss the freshly ground coffee and homemade chocolate at the charming La Puerto Rico. Dating to 1887, the place features huge picture windows, pretty woodwork and a long zinc bar.
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M
Café Richmond
Another favorite of Jorge Luis Borges, the elegant old Café Richmond has been serving afternoon teas (and the great writer’s favorite, hot chocolate) since 1917.
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