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Getting there & away

In Vlora the bus and furgon terminus is easily spotted by the Muradi Mosque. Getting to Vlora from Tirana and Durrës is easy, with buses (300 lekë, three hours, 161km) and furgons (400 lekë) whizzing back and forth in the morning hours. There are also buses to Berat (250 lekë, two hours, 89km, nine daily), or you can catch a furgon to Fier (150 lekë, one hour, 39km) and change there (200 lekë, one hour, 50km). Buses to Gjirokastra (700 lekë, 5½ hours) and on to Saranda leave at 6am, 7am, 1pm and 2pm.

The bus to Qeparo will get you to Dhërmi and Himara. It stops on the main road near the terminus before continuing through Plazhi i Ri and Uji i Ftohtë. It takes 90 minutes to climb the Llogaraja Pass, where it often stops for a breather before commencing the 40-minute trip down to Dhërmi (300 lekë).

Trains head from Tirana (210 lekë, 5½ hours, twice daily) via Durrës (210 lekë, five hours). There are also ferries from Vlora to Brindisi, Italy (€40, four to seven hours depending on the boat, 13 weekly).