Things to do in Central Albania
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A
Archaeological Museum
The ArchaeologicalMuseum on the waterfront is well laid out and has an impressive collection of artefacts from the Greek, Hellenistic and Roman periods. Highlights include engraved Roman funeral stelae (memorial stones) and some big carved stone sarcophagi. Back in the day when the city was called Epidamnos, Durrës was a centre for the worship of Venus, and the museum has a cabinet bursting with little busts of the love goddess.
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B
Bar Torra
Housed inside a fortified Venetian tower at the beginning of the city walls, this was one of the first private cafes in Albania, opened by a team of local artists. After you've had a peek at the tourist information section inside, and at the view from the top, you can drink a local brew in the cosy barred nooks of the old tower. The ceiling is strangely reminiscent of Hoxha's bunkers.
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C
Ethnographic Museum
Down from the castle is Berat's Ethnographic Museum . It's based in an 18th-century Ottoman house, which is as interesting as the exhibits. The ground floor has displays of traditional clothes and the tools used by silversmiths and weavers, while the upper storey has kitchens, bedrooms and guest rooms decked out in traditional style. Check out the mafil, a kind of mezzanine looking into the lounge where the women of the house could keep an eye on male guests being entertained (and see when their cups needed to be filled). Brochures are available, but to get the most out of it, ask for a guided tour.
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D
Onufri Museum
Kala was traditionally a Christian neighbourhood, but less than a dozen of the 20 churches remain. The quarter's biggest church, Church of the Dormition of St Mary (Kisha Fjetja e Shën Mërisë) only holds one service a year, and is now the site of the Onufri Museum . The church itself dates from 1797 but was built on the foundations of a 10th-century church. The building makes a lovely museum, and Onufri's spectacular 16th-century artworks are displayed on the ground level along with a beautifully gilded iconostasis.
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E
Ajka Restaurant
This substantial restaurant is run by an Armenian family whose ancestors settled in Albania early in the 20th century. The restaurant has a lovely setting above the Osum River, looking over the houses of the Mangalem quarter. Pizzas cost around 400 lekë, and a substantial mixed meze platter costs 500 lekë. It also serves grilled dishes and ice cream.
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F
Former Palace of King Zogu I
On the hilltop west of the amphitheatre stands the decaying former palace of King Zogu I; it's a 15-minute climb up from the town centre to what was a grand palace (marble staircases, carved wooden ceilings and the like), but it's closed to the public. There are better views from the nearby lighthouse.
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G
Bujar's
In the markati (market) area between the two main roads in the lower town you might be able to find this simple cafe with wonderful home-style meals. The restaurant doesn't have a menu, just a selection of daily offerings. There's a small sign on the single-storey light-blue building in the lane behind the Shpëtimi Bar.
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H
Great Mosque
The town centre is easily covered on foot and in the centre, the great mosque serves as a point of orientation: the archaeological attractions are immediately around it, and the train and bus stations are 1km to the northeast.
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I
Badrilko
This restaurant, on the landward side of rr Taulantia, may lack sea views, but it has the best pizzas in Durrës, a wide range of fish (on display, take your pick), a busy saloon-style interior and a lively terrace bar.
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4 Stinet
The last of eight pizzerias on the end of the promenade serves tasty light meals, including pasta and pizza, right on the water's edge.
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