Kala was traditionally a Christian neighbourhood, but fewer than a dozen of the 20 churches remain. The quarter's biggest church, Church...
Down in the traditionally Muslim Mangalem quarter, there are three grand mosques. The 16th-century Sultan's Mosque (Xhamia e Mbretit)...
Catch the 8am or 9am furgon to Bogove via Skrappar, or a later bus to Polican then transfer to a furgon to Bogove. Lunch at Taverna...
In the markati (market) area between the two main roads in the lower town you might be able to find this simple cafe with wonderful...
Ethnographic Museum information
Down from the castle, this museum is in an 18th-century Ottoman house that's as interesting as the exhibits. The ground floor has displays of traditional clothes and the tools used by silversmiths and weavers, while the upper storey has kitchens, bedrooms and guest rooms decked out in traditional style. Check out the mafil , a kind of mezzanine looking into the lounge where the women of the house could keep an eye on male guests (and see when their cups needed to be filled). There are information sheets in Italian, French and English.