Desert sights in Africa
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Ouadâne
The first glimpse of Ouadâne, a Unesco World Heritage site is arresting. The old quarter that stretches atop the hill is one of the most enchanting semi-ghost towns of the Sahara. As you arrive across the sands or plateau from Atâr or Chinguetti, the stone houses of Le Ksar al Kiali (old quarter) seem to tumble down the cliff like an apparition.
From the base of the town, the lush gardens of the oasis stretch out before the desert again takes hold. The top of the hill is dominated by the minaret of the new mosque, a mere 200 years old. At the western end, at the base of the town, is the 14th-century old mosque.
Ouadâne was founded in 1147 by Berbers, and sits on the…
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Dankalia
Dankalia is the name given to the narrow strip of land about 50km (31mi) wide that stretches south of Massawa down to Djibouti (about 600km/372mi), along the coastline. You can't miss it on the map: it looks like a long peninsula protruding from the south of the country. It's a volcanic desert where you'll be struck in awe by otherworldly, lunar landscapes.
It is known as one of the hottest and most inhospitable places on Earth: there's little to see, nothing to do, and no great destination awaiting you at the other end. The journey is hot, tiring and demanding; few travellers come here. But the sense of exploration is real, even on the rickety old bus. If you drive, the…
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Chinguetti
This sleepy date-palm oasis, once a splendid Saharan trading city, is the seventh holiest city of Islam and is situated at the edge of fat, rolling dunes that fill the horizon. It's Mauritania's biggest tourist destination, mainly because it's the most accessible of the desert towns, with the most to see, and a popular starting point for desert treks.
The highlight of any visit is a wander through the labyrinthine lanes of Le Ksar (the old town). The modern town, which has a delightful market (remarkable for how little produce is available), is separated from the old town by a broad, flat wadi where palm trees grow. Other curios include tiny libraries housing ancient,…
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Lac Abbé
Lac Abbé must rate among the most desolate places on earth. The scenery is unique: the plain is dotted with hundreds of limestone chimneys, some standing as high as 50m (165ft), belching out puffs of steam. These spikelike chimneys are the result of calcareous deposits across time. It's often described as lunar, and Planet of the Apes was filmed here.
Though desolate, it is not uninhabited. Numerous mineral-rich hot springs feed the farms of local nomads who graze their camels and goats here. The banks of the lake are also where flamingos gather at dawn.
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Palmeraie
Not that you're counting, but the palmeraie here is the largest of all the Tunisian desert oases, with almost half a million palm trees. A wonderfully productive place, it turns out a remarkable assortment of fruit and vegetables - as well as prized deglat ennour (finger of light) dates.
The best way to explore it is to walk out along one of the two roads leading south through the palmeraie from the western end of ave des Martyrs. The roads link up at the Zone Touristique.
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Ténéré Desert
The Ténéré Desert fulfills the classic image of endless empty desert - towering sand dunes scattered here and there with cave paintings, dinosaur fossils and car wrecks. It's illegal to explore here unless you're in the company of a licensed guide from a licensed Nigerien travel agency.
Police require a feuille de route (official itinerary) for all vehicles travelling north of Agadez - these are only issued by licensed Nigerien travel agencies in Agadez and Niamey.
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Great Dune
Douz is the most convenient place to get a taste for the Sahara, though it's really only a taste. The Sahara desert proper starts 50km south of the Zone Touristique. Unless you're planning a longer excursion into the desert, the action centres around the great dune. It can't compare to the sand seas of the Grand Erg Oriental, but is a gentle introduction for those with limited time.
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Sossusvlei
Sossusvlei is a huge ephemeral pan set amid towering red dunes that reach up to 325m (1066ft). The dunes are part of the 32,000 sq km (12,355 sq mi) sand sea covering much of western Namibia, and belong to one of the oldest and driest ecosystems on earth. The landscape here is constantly changing as colours shift with the light and wind alters the dune shapes.
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Jebel Acacus
The Jebel Acacus is an other-wordly landscape of dark basalt monoliths rising up from the sands of the central Sahara. This World Heritage-listed area is home to unique natural rock formations, as well as prehistoric rock paintings and carvings, some of which date back 12,000 years. You can only visit the region with a guide, who can be organised in Ghat.
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