Shopping in Africa
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Centre for National Culture
A warren of stalls selling arts and crafts and known simply as the Arts Centre, this is the place to shop in Accra and the most visited site in the country. The level of aggressive hassling may make you want to keep your cedis in your pocket but if you have the patience and wherewithal, you can come away with good-quality handicrafts from all over Ghana.
reviewed
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Uganda Arts & Crafts Village
Hidden away behind the National Theatre, this 'village' has a number of stalls selling handicrafts, such as caneware, woodcarvings and small trinkets from around the country, all at quite reasonable prices if you bargain.
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Habiba
Run by an Australian woman who loves to travel in Egypt and who wants to promote the best of Egyptian crafts, this tiny shop goes from strength to strength. It sells an ever-expanding selection of Bedouin embroidery, jewellery, leather work, wonderful Siwan scarves, cotton embroidered scarves from Sohag, the best Egyptian cotton towels (usually only for export), mirrors and brass lights – and all at fair-trade fixed prices. A world away from what is available in the nearby souq.
reviewed
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Exposure Africa
Next door to Daisy's Arcade, this is the biggest craft market in Kampala, with about 30 stalls offering crafts from Uganda and beyond. Prices vary wildly between stalls, so shop around and don't forget your bargaining hat. Much of the merchandise comes from neighbouring Kenya, despite what the sellers claim.
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Doon Estate
Has a number of shops, including Art Mart, which is stocked with the work of dozens of local artisans and crofters. The Cocoa Tree (more commonly known as the Belgian chocolate shop), also here, has to be experienced to be believed. Eat and drink in or takeaway - its novelty chocolates make great presents.
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Manda Hill Shopping Centre
The swish Manda Hill Shopping Centre is easy to reach by minibus from along Cairo Rd or from the Millennium Bus Station, or by taxi (around ZK120). As well as banks, bookshops, internet cafés, furniture stores, restaurants and fast-food outlets, the shopping centre boasts a huge Shoprite supermarket.
reviewed
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Rondebosch Potters Market
If you’re interested in local ceramics, the date to mark in your diary is the twice yearly Rondebosch Potters Market held on the second-last Saturday of March and November.
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Spice Souq
For herbal Viagra, Berber lipstick, cures for baldness and exotic spices, the spice souq is the place to go. The jovial traders will try and draw you in with their more eccentric wares but the best buys are the aromatic spice blends for tajine, fish and chicken. You can also buy argan oil products here as well as the traditional amlou (about Dh40 per bottle). Nearby is the fish souq, an interesting place to wander even if you're not buying, and across Ave de l'Istiqlal, is the jewellery souq, a small area of jewellery shops with everything from heavy Berber beads to gaudy gold.
reviewed
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Patrick Mavros
At the end of Haslemere Lane, 1km off the Umwinsedale Rd, is this place; it is signposted. It's set atop a spectacular hill, overlooking a picture-perfect valley complete with giraffes and buffalo - a visit is a must. The studio and gallery sells designer silverware from jewellery to tableware and whimsical paperweights (collector items or presents for the person who has everything). Mavros's signature style in his jewellery is the ndoro shell, the original currency of Zimbabwe. He also has a shop in Knightsbridge, London, though this one is cheaper!
reviewed
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Khan al-Khalili
Jaundiced travellers often dismiss the Khan al-Khalili as a tourist trap; there's no ignoring the fact that it's a favoured stop of tour buses and has all the associated annoyances (touts and tat) that come with them. But it's worth remembering that Cairenes have plied their trades here since the founding of the Khan in the 14th century - the buying and selling didn't begin with the arrival of the first tour group.
Today the market still plays an important role in the day-to-day commercial life of thousands of locals.
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Mohammed Ben El-Hair
Mt Everest is overrated; the most thrilling mountain to scale is the one of colourful Berber carpets in this tiny shop. Charming elderly proprietor Abu Mohammed ushers you in with a smile and mint tea, then waves towards the mountain with a single word of English: 'Democracy!' This is your invitation to clamber up, and start pulling down whatever carpets appeal to you. The prices are more than democratic; they're downright proletarian.
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Marché des HLM
The fabulous Marché des HLM is the best place to buy African fabrics. Hundreds of rolls of wax-dyed bazin (dyed fabrics beaten to a shine with wooden clubs), vibrant prints, embroidered cloth, lace and silk lend colour to the ramshackle stalls and dusty streets of this popular quartier. You can get matching shoes, bags and jewellery at the same place, and even have your new ensemble sewn here.
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Covered Market
This is the place in Meknès to get fresh produce, and is virtually a tourist attraction in itself, with its beautifully arranged pyramids of sugary sweet delicacies, dates and nuts, olives and preserved lemons in glistening piles. There’s also good-quality fruit and veg here, as well as meat – the faint-hearted may choose to avoid the automated chicken-plucking machines at the rear of the hall.
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Book Lounge
Mervyn Sloman has been practically canonised by local booklovers for creating this heavenly bookshop that has become the hub of Cape Town’s literary scene, thanks to its great selection of titles, comfy chairs, simple café and program of events. There are up to three talks or book launches a week, generally with free drinks and nibbles, and readings for kids at the weekend.
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Owino Market
The busiest market in Kampala is Owino Market, which sprawls around the Nakivubo Stadium, near the taxi parks. Here you can find all sorts of goods for sale, but it is most popular with travellers for its wide range of second-hand clothes from Europe, Asia and the USA. Bargain hard, as they tend to raise the prices when mzungus (white people) are sniffing around.
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Village Artisanal
At this easy-going centre you'll see Togolese artisans weaving cloth, carving statues, making baskets and lampshades, sewing leather shoes and constructing cane chairs and tables - all for sale at reasonable fixed prices. Lomé is famous for leather sandals; they were originally all made at the Village Artisanal, but you can also buy them around the Grand Marché.
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Banana Boat
An expanding empire, this sophisticated craft shop now has three branches. The original has a few local items, but many of the smart pieces come from all over Africa, including cards, batik, jewellery, clothing and carvings. There is a similar branch in the Garden City Complex, plus a branch with an emphasis on homes and interiors in the newer Lugogo Mall.
reviewed
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Association Al Kawtar
Bring some baraka (good vibes) to your table with hand-embroidered table linens in spare, striking designs, all made at a nonprofit vocational training and daycare centre for disabled women and their children. Exquisitely edged pillow cases, hand towels and napkins make lovely feel-good gifts at perfectly reasonable fixed prices.
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Arcades Shopping Centre
The swish Arcades Shopping Centre is easy to reach by minibus from along Cairo Rd or from the Millennium Bus Station, or by taxi (around ZK120). As well as banks, bookshops, internet cafés, furniture stores, restaurants and fast-food outlets, the shopping centre boasts a huge Spar supermarket.
reviewed
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Garden City Complex
Apart from the lively local markets, the best places for shopping are the two big shopping centres in the city: Lugogo Mall and Garden City Complex. Garden City Complex has several floors of shops, including a supermarket, bookshop and department store, plus a cinema, bowling alley and food court.
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Spinners Web
Works with workshops and self-help groups around the country. It's a bit like a handicrafts version of Ikea, with goods displayed the way they might look in Western living rooms, but there's some classy stuff on offer including carpets, wall hangings, ceramics, wooden bowls, baskets and clothing.
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Ultra Liquors
‘Pile ‘em high, sell ‘em cheap’ is the deal at this liquor warehouse chain – don’t expect much in the way of expert advice, but the range is wide and the prices can seldom be beaten – even at the cellar door.
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Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África
This market has a Central American look with its arched entrance, clock tower and flower sellers. It's not large by Spanish standards but is still tantalising, with its mountains of fresh fruit and vegetables and variety of fish. You can also buy bread, fabulous local cheese and meats.
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Lugogo Mall
Apart from the lively local markets, the best places for shopping are the two big shopping centres in the city: Lugogo Mall and Garden City Complex. The newer Lugogo Mall includes a Barclays Bank, a large Shoprite supermarket and Game, a huge DIY and household shop from South Africa.
reviewed