Tunisian restaurants in Africa
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A
Dar Bel Hadj
This is a grand traditional restaurant in a sumptuous 17th-century mansion, an extraordinary surprise after the medina's narrow streets. The food is delicious and recommended. Try the Tunisian mixed hors d'oeuvres and the brochettes de mérou (grouper kebabs). The restaurant's golf buggy will pick you up and drop you off from Place de Gouvernement in the evening.
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B
Chez Nous
This feels like an Italian-American mobsters' haunt. It's in a snug back room and is nothing fancy, but the food is good and there are faded black-and-white photos of faded stars on the walls.
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C
Dar el-Jeld
This is special from the moment you knock on the grand bee-yellow arched doorway, which opens onto an elaborate 18th-century mansion - it's like stepping into a lavishly decorated jewellery box. The magnificent dining room is in a covered central courtyard, with secluded alcove tables around the edge.
A good way to start is with the mixed hors d'oeuvres, then try delicious traditional Tunisian dishes such as kabkabou (fish with tomatoes, capers and olives), all accompanied by the twanging tones of the resident elderly musician.
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D
Tontonville
This buzzing place has plain, no-nonsense décor, heavily curtained from the street, so punters can tuck into the alcohol on offer with impunity. It also has lots of good fish. The salade mechouia (grilled peppers and tomatoes with olive oil and garlic, served garnished with olives or tuna) that accompanies the dishes comes with a kick.
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E
Al-Mazar
As befits a bar cunningly disguised as a restaurant, this is buzzing and convivial; lone women might find it intimidating. With paintings on the walls and big globe lampshades, you might think yourself in Paris. The food is excellent, with special mention going to the harissa (spicy chilli paste) and to the chocolate mousse.
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F
Restaurante Les 3 Étoiles
This is a great little basic place with cheap-as-chips food - fill-you-up couscous or blow-your-top salade mechouia (grilled peppers and tomatoes with olive oil and garlic, served garnished with olives or tuna) - whirring fans, plastic tablecloths, and satisfied customers.
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G
Mahdaoui
Central and cheap, here the tables fill a narrow alley by the Zaytouna Mosque. The simple daily menu offers couscous, fish, chicken, lamb (sometimes half a head - yikes) and so on - greasy but pretty good. If you get here late there won't be much choice left.
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H
Dodo Restaurant
This, the most modern of the medina restaurants, is a bit of a surprise. Surrounded by the clutter of commerce, the Dodo is a little bit of a refuge though it is expensive by medina standards. Pizza and Tunisian meat dishes are on the menu.
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I
Restaurant Marmite
Across from the Hôtel Residence Monia, this posh, at least as far as cost goes, restaurant serves up seafood and other Tunisian fare, plus wine. A marmite, by the way, in Tunisia is a large urn-shaped cooking pot.
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Restaurant Capitole
This small place is popular with Tunisian families but the service is slow and it's worth it to pre-order especially for the metabgha (Berber pizza; around TD3, pre-order only). Camel steak is also on the menu.
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Restaurant-Bar Le Petit Prince
Dining under the palms, sipping a fine wine while listening to music is a special experience. This restaurant is tucked in behind a wall a short walk past the arch and serves quality French and Tunisian cuisine.
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J
Neptune
With its curly wrought-iron chairs, Formica tabletops and wicker-framed mirrors that could have been plucked from 1970s suburbia, this chirpy place has simple Tunisian favourites, including fresh fish.
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Restaurant Les Andalous
Overlooking the garden of the Hôtel du Jardin, this restaurant has high-end trappings and a better-than-average menu and, at least as important, wine and alcohol are served.
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K
Andalous
Dimly lit by ornate lanterns and decorated with carved wooden screens, this has a Moroccan feel, a discreet TV in the corner, affable waiters and tasty seafood and meat dishes.
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M'Rabet
Above the busy traditional café, this is a formal small restaurant with good views of the Zaytouna Mosque, specialising in Tunisian dishes and mainly catering to groups.
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M
Carcassonne
Remarkable value is the name of the game at this small, popular, friendly place, with good-quality traditional food in pleasant, relaxed surroundings. Service is fast.
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N
Abid
With a busily tiled interior, TV, flickering neon and simple Tunisian staples (specialising in spicy Sfaxian dishes), this is a good-value neighbourhood favourite.
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Restaurant La Medina
A no-nonsense eatery 100m northeast of place Bab el-Hawa, the Medina is clean and friendly and the service prompt. Try the ragout d'haricot (bean stew).
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O
Margaritas
You get good service, cooking and value at this business and tourist favourite: a small hotel restaurant decorated in dusky mauve and dark wood.
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Restaurant de la Jeunesse
This is the place to get couscous in the heart of the medina. The restaurant is tourist-friendly though it's worth double checking your bill.
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P
Capitole
This long-standing place has tasty traditional food, served in a slightly flouncy function room, with views over the busy main drag below.
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Q
Le Carthage
Heavy on the camp and kitsch statuary, but with prize-winning couscous and specialising in seafood, this is an intimate, popular choice.
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Forum Grill
A beachfront tourist restaurant that is nevertheless not a bad option since the service is friendly and it has a large, eclectic menu.
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Restaurant de la République
Tucked away in an arcade next to the Mosque el-Ferdous, this is another good place with a pleasant eating area and decent food.
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Picolomondo
A short walk from the Aghlabid Basins, Picolomondo is a modern restaurant with pizza and other Tunisian fare.
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