Ai Khanoum Getting there & around

Getting there & away

Hiring a car is the simplest way to get to Ai Khanoum. The route via Taloqan is the easiest. From Kunduz the route is spectacular over some crazy dunes, but it’s easy to get lost so it’s essential that the driver know where he’s going. We were quoted around US$80 for a return trip from Kunduz, around 3½ hours each way. The route passes through the small town of Khwaja Gar and crosses the Kokcha River at Pul-e Kokcha (look for the spectacularly crashed plane near the bridge, the site of the old Taliban/Northern Alliance front line). The road turns west at Dasht-e Qala, following the river a further 5km to Ai Khanoum – the hill at the confluence is on the outskirts of the village of the same name.

Public transport is a challenge. From Taloqan, minibuses run by erratic schedules to Dasht-e Qala, but you’ll need to arrange the last leg from there, probably hiring a vehicle outright. Roads are poor throughout this route.