Ai Khanoum

Introducing Ai Khanoum

In 1961, King Zahir Shah was hunting in the area where the Kokcha River meets the Amu Darya when his party discovered some intriguing archaeological remains. He could never have anticipated that his accident would reveal the site of the easternmost ancient Greek city in the world.

Ai Khanoum (‘Moon Lady’ in Uzbek) is presumed to be Alexandria-Oxiana, founded by Alexander the Great during his campaigns in the 4th century BC. It’s strategic location on a hill overlooking the confluence of the rivers is so immediately apparent it convinces you that Alexander must indeed have stood here.

The site stretches around 2km along the banks of the Amu Darya. Excavation in the 1960s and ’70s revealed a temple complex, palace with administrative quarter, theatre, gymnasium and necropolis. Several coin hoards and many statues were also recovered, including an inscription from the Oracles of Delphi haughtily exhorting readers the correct way to live their lives (still in the Kabul Museum).

Having lain hidden for centuries, the years since discovery have not been kind. Frankly, the site is a mess. Myriad robber holes dot the landscape like giant rabbit holes, reminders that when the war came, so did the looters. Anyone but the keenest archaeological mind will need a lot of imagination to see the site as an ancient city. Almost no visible historic remains can be seen. The site hasn’t been completely trashed, however, and French archaeologists have received permission to carry out a more delicate variety of excavation, particularly in the area around the acropolis and citadel that sit atop the hill.

Despite this, the Ai Khanoum is still worth visiting for the scenery. A shingle beach sits at the confluence that would make a fine place for a picnic. On the Afghan side the land sweeps away into wide plains dotted with trees, while the Tajik border is marked by high ochre cliffs and the strong broad flow of the Amu Darya. There’s certainly a romance to the area.

An hour’s drive from Ai Khanoum, heading north from Dasht-e Qala is the town of Khwaja Bahauddin, the final headquarters of Ahmad Shah Massoud, pinned back by the Taliban in 2001. It was here on 9 September 2001 that he was murdered by two Al-Qaeda operatives posing as journalists. Locals will point out with a heavy heart the building where he died. While here, also look out for the traffic island with the Corinthian columns looted from Ai Khanoum; there are more in a nearby chaikhana.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009