Things to do in Kandahar
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Mosque of the Sacred Cloak
A cloak worn by the Prophet Mohammed is housed in the Mosque of the Sacred Cloak, by far the city’s most valued treasure. The mosque is situated opposite the governor’s palace. Ahmed Shah Durrani acquired the cloak along with a hair of the beard of the Prophet from the Amir of Bukhara in 1768. When the Taliban took Kandahar in 1994, Mullah Omar wrapped himself in the cloak in front of thousands of loyal Talibs, giving himself god-like status as Amir Al-Momineen (Commander of the Faithful). As a visitor you will be unable to see the cloak but the building is impressive in itself – ornately decorated with green Helmandi marble, mirrored tile work and gilded archways. A smal…
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Mirwais Shandaiz Restaurant
Not surprisingly this is the only restaurant in Kandahar to sport a spinning disco light; don’t let the waiters in matching grotty England soccer shirts put you off, as they serve great Afghan food all day. Offerings include kebab, pulao (rice dish), mutton karai (diced mutton fried with chilli, tomato and spices and served with bread), mantu (steamed meat dumplings) and beef kufta (meatballs with different sauces served with rice). The food is fresh, portions are generous and the local seasonal juices and milkshakes are delicious. To finish off, try the home-made ice cream followed by a cup of chai and a sheesha pipe on the elevated takht area.
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The Forty Steps
One kilometre west of Dand Chowk nestled in a rocky outcrop above the city are The Forty Steps, which are visible from most of Shah-e-Nau. The steps will take you to a small enclave in the mountain guarded by two stone lions. The statues were carved by Babur, founder of the Mughal Empire of India, who took Kandahar in the 16th century. Inside the enclave there is a Persian inscription paying tribute to the conquests of Babur. It's a great place to take the ubiquitous Afghan thermos and drink a cup of green chai while watching the sunrise, but it won't be serene for long as your presence will probably attract an army of kids from the surrounding village.
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Baba Wali Shrine
Sitting on the banks of the Arghandab River is the Baba Wali Shrine, also known as Baba Sahib by Kandaharis. Gul Agha Sherzai, the twice-former Governor of Kandahar, fierce warlord and former mujahideen commander constructed the shrine at a cost of millions of dollars to honour one of his revered tribesmen. It provides a great view to the verdant Arghandab Valley, which is in stark contrast to the rest of the dusty province. The multi-level shrine, marble and mirror-clad, set into a hillside is a popular picnic place for the Kandaharis, with kebabs, hand-made ice cream and local fruit juices available from cart vendors.
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Eid Gah Mosque
One of the largest mosques in Afghanistan, Kandahar's Eid Gah Mosque stands at nearly 25m adjacent to the dilapidated Kandahar University. The mosque and the surrounding grounds can accommodate thousands of worshippers with its construction having taken years at a cost of millions - all funded by Mullah Omar. Apart from Eid times local youths use the grounds as cricket pitches, as many of them learned the game whilst growing up in refugee camps in Pakistan. The mullah will show you around and as a courtesy a small donation is customary.
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The Coffee Shop
The Coffee Shop serves up a wide selection of Western café-style food, Pashtun and English literature and pretty good espresso coffee. It has been dubbed ‘the Starbucks of Kandahar’ in many Western broadsheets and magazines and has just installed four pool tables. It is the first of its kind in the city and a great place to take a break from kebabs and pulao. Here you will find groups of hip, male 20-something Pashtuns sipping lattes and speaking about the latest pirated Hollywood DVDs.
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Mosque of the Hair of the Prophet
Although a little harder to find than the cloak, make sure you make the trip to Mosque of the Hair of the Prophet near Chowk-e Charso in the Old City to see where this unique Islamic relic lies. The hair from the Prophet’s beard is encased by a golden sheath in a casket. Like the cloak you will be unable to see the hair; however the Mosque itself is a peaceful haven from the chaos of the Old City bazaars.
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Yasin BBQ Restaurant
By far the best Pashtun BBQ restaurant in town, the Yasin serves up tasty lamb kebab, beef shaslik and BBQ whole chicken in a twinkling, plus it will do meals on request. Cleanliness doesn’t seem to be too much of a priority, with the occasional cigarette butt kicking around on the greasy floors, but diners shouldn’t be overly concerned as the fare is fresh and comes straight off the scorching-hot charcoal grill.
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Kabul Darwaza
Several good antique stores can be found in Kabul Darwaza, selling all sorts of trash and treasure from the British and Soviet occupations. The tool stores here sell the favoured souvenir of western journalists in the South - opium poppy cutters and scrapers.
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Madina Restaurant
The recently opened Madina Restaurant serves the usual mix of Afghan staples and proudly displays its Western options of burgers and club sandwiches at the top of the menu. Their massive juice bar churns out concoctions of the fruit of the season.
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Charso Chowk
In Charso Chowk rugs can be found at much cheaper prices than in Kabul. Traditional Pashtun turbans and the quintessential Kandahari prayer hat, the balotchi, encrusted with a rainbow of plastic gems, can also be found here.
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Ahmed Shah Durrani Mausoleum
The mausoleum of the founder of modern-day Afghanistan, Ahmed Shah Durrani, is at the rear of the Mosque of the Sacred Cloak. The octagonal shaped, richly decorated mausoleum is somewhat overshadowed by the mosque.
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Shaheedan Chowk
The main shopping areas are located around the three Old City Chowks. Shaheedan Chowk is good for mobile phone cards, moneychangers, toiletries and food.
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