Andkhoi

Introducing Andkhoi

Visiting Andkhoi feels a little like stepping back in time to a part of Central Asia that no longer exists. It’s a modest place given its history – it thrived in the medieval era and Timur visited in 1380 where he received an omen to conquer Herat. Now a mixed Turkmen and Uzbek farming community on the edge of the Dasht-e Laili it feels far removed from the bustle of most Afghan towns, and a long way from anywhere. The old street plan is yet to be despoiled by the ugly glass-and-concrete buildings so popular elsewhere in Afghanistan and there’s barely a scrap of Western clothing in evidence. You’ll never have seen so many people wearing chapans (robes).

Bazaar days (Monday and Thursday) are the best time to visit. The main bazaar area is between the streets west and north of the town square. Huge piles of melons line the streets when in season, competing for space amid the blacksmiths, dried goods and tea stalls. Although there’s no animal market, it can still sometimes feel like the town has more donkeys and camels than motor vehicles. The real reason to come here however is for the carpets and textiles.

Andkhoi has been a carpet centre since the 1920s, when floods of Turkmen refugees, fleeing from the aftershocks of the Russian Revolution, entered north Afghanistan. The flocks of karakul sheep they brought with them transformed the local economy, producing high-quality skins and rugs.

The main road west from the town square, surrounded by shops selling wool, is where you’ll find most of the carpets. Dealers from Kabul and Mazar-e Sharif buy and commission much of their stock from here. Watching the traders make a deal is a fascinating process. Although the carpet sellers are mainly wholesale, they’re always happy to make a sale and the prices are considerably less than you’ll find elsewhere. Tucked amid the carpets, you’ll also find people selling textiles – hand-woven silks, suzanis (spreads embroidered with silk or wool) and clothes. The haggling is about as laidback as it comes and if you can throw in a few words of Uzbek or Turkmen, don’t be surprised if your purchase comes with an invitation home for dinner.

Last updated: Mar 24, 2009